650B All-Road - Second Time Around

As far as I know the adapters are universal, I used some old formula ones I had knocking around when installing my BB7's. My BB7 came with an adapter anyway, but only for 160mm front and 140mm rear, so maybe worth mocking up the brake/rotor fit with the standard supplied fittings and then working out which to buy (I know from building a few mountain bikes that a 180mm adapter on the front only gives you 160mm on the rear sometimes, if that makes sense). However, cool bike!! I look forward to seeing it built up, this was one of the threads that made me finally pull the trigger and order my cotic.

I bought a Praxisworks BB just to get not have the hassle when fitting it; errrr wrong. The fitment on the plastic PF30 holder is to tight for the lip inside the frame. It wont go past it. I'm fuming.
Any tips on how to sort this? I have greased to kingdom come.

Fitted the SRAM adapter instead. What does the wavy washer do exactly? Corrects chainline?

Not sure if the black distance rings where in the package I got or not either. This is starting to drain my lust of building bikes. Faffing about I hate.

That thing usually comes with gxp chainsets. Never used it. The distance rings are used like you normally do if you're fitting a mtb chainset on a 68mm width bottom bracket.

Pressfit is the most stupid standard since forever.

I wonder if these KCNC bottom brackets will work or if the ridge inside the bb housing on the frame is too big.

Sent an order on that one yesterday. Will arrive next week. It might just work.
PF30 could just take a nosedive into a brickwall. BB30 is equally keck.

I'm fitting a Shimano 105 5800 crank so I wont need spacers

Using the same PF30 Sram adapter for my CNC frame. Put a standard threaded 68mm GXP bottom bracket in and fitted a sram rival crankset. Works fine. No spacers or washers needed!

Could you post a pic of the drive side cup? I run the same setup and i feel like the right side adapter is loose. It doesn't sit flush to the frame.

(Sry hijack thread)

Hijack away mate. Mine sit flush against the frame but I can't say if it walks out of the frame under pressure. Internet say that you really should put some glue on the nds cup when you press it in so it stops from wiggling. I might just do that if the KCNC doesn't work.
If it comes to worse and I need to switch it out I'll just saw it out of there. It is plastic after all. ;)

Also, am going 1x on this as i really want the front mech gone as it's a bunch of faff to fit one on this frame and can't be bothered to fit a braze on.

Should I go with Tektro or Cane Creek levers? Thoughts, pros cons?

Absoluteblack Oval 40t ordered too.

It's going to look a lot like psee's rig ha! Color choice will set it apart I think.

Another option?

Will do later today!

SRAM S500 is another one. Will check the TRP out.

Checked, they're, on paper, heavier than the S500 pair. I'll go with the S500.

The TRPs are carbon so will be more expensive than the S500. Cheaper than Sram's carbon S900 though. Depends how tarty you're feeling :)

Edit: TRP do an alloy one too though

You're saving 10/20g on a plain gauge steel bike? haha

No, but the fact that carbon is 20g heavier boggles my mind. I guess they got more padding or summit. I'm cheap, but I can do a 50 pounds on new levers to tarten it up. ;)

Where's the Alloy one at, Bike24?

Don't think so, various other places though.
Including ebay from the far east for cheap

It was just a suggestion though. I'd probably use Sram if it was my bike :) I've no experience of TRP and I like the hood shape on Sram

Sram errday.

Also good choice going for the oval single chainring.

I'm sure you'll enjoy it despite the bb headaches. I don't run tubeless yet but it's already like rolling on clouds. Don't really feel the weight.

I like what I'm hearing.

How do you like the feel of the SRAM aero shifter?

Quite stiff compared to other bar-ends but works well.

Sorry, I forgot about the pic until I did a ride on friday. noticed some rubbing coming from the crank/bb area. chainring bolts were rubbing on the driveside chainstay because the limiter of the gxp bb could not hold the spindle back and in its place (hope that makes sense). It turned out the nds of the sram adapter was pushed out a little. pushed it back in (with tools) and everything is in its place again but cant tell if it stays there as I havent been able to test it afterwards. Just wanted to confirm your issue with loose cup!

Sucks! I'm not touching pressfit again after this frame. The whole reason for me using this frame was to build a reliable bike. I hope the KCNC bb Thrust ordered fits. Seems like a bb that threads into itself is neccessary for it to stay in place. Hope has a version too but i don't feel like shelling out £100 for a bb..

It shouldnt be of concern as the BSA adapter should work with any threaded bb made for that type really but I feel like it could be a SRAM gxp only problem. As the new gxp brackets have a kind of limiter inside the nds cup. Meaning that the cup limits the spindle from getting through completely to ensure that the crank does not rub against the drive side bb cup (I hope any one gets where I am going). As you screw the nds crankarm on to the spindle you apply force that may eventually lead the whole adapter/cups/spindle bricolage to shift in place. Through the limiter, the spindle pushes out the whole bb cup and adapter on the nds and the driveside crankarm all of a sudden sits closer to the driveside cup causing (in my case) chainring bolts to rub. Should not be of concern with shimano I recon as you only preload spindle on nds side with the little plastic screw thingy and then clamp the nds crankarm. Also, hollowtech 2 bb does not have some sort of stupid limiter built in..... dont know - PF30 sucks! This frame with 27,2mm seatpost inner and threaded bb would be a dream! cheers

They sent the wrong colour, so it'll take a few more days :/

Which other bottom bracket you think would work? Praxis didn't fit as I mentioned above.