Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

With asymetric rims you need to put a value in the OSB field; for those Kinlins I think 3mm

Ok. Fortunately it hasn't affected the result.

Thanks though.

Thanks, I was hoping that would be the case and it does feel like a scratch. Just wanted to check before investing in a new hub and packing off to a wheelbuilder (I don't trust my own abilities with a 24h old carbon rim!). Cheers.

I use 276mm ds and 277mm nds.

Does anyone still stock Kinlin ADHN rims, or have they been discontinued? In silver, 32h.

Mainly want them for aesthetic reasons really, Any alternatives at similar price?

Hubjub
http://hubjub.co.uk/kinlin-adhn-101-p.asp

not mine
Broken mack by brivael.laurendeau

Thanks! I was literally on Hubjub a day or so ago and they were out of stock :)

Any forumers built with or have experience with them? Can't find many reviews online

New website though... On closer inspection they might indeed still be out. When you choose options for 32h and silver the 'email me when...' dialog appears. Hope they do have them in for you!

Give them a call as I think they can get them from the distributor fairly quickly. I've got a set on the way to me from them but they've taken a little while with the build so no review as yet

With the wheel building process itself, at the moment I am watching videos on youtube and reading some Sheldon Brown to educate myself. Some builders are using spoke prep for instance, and have the bespoke tools for wheel building such as nipple drivers, wrenches and obviously a truing stand.

My build would very much be ghetto and not have a truing stand, but is it still worth getting a nipple driver and using spoke prep? I don't want to waste the quality of my parts with the poor quality of my build!

A nipple driver can be made out of any old screwdriver, as for the truing stand you don't necessarily need a professional one to build a wheel as long as you're happy to accept the wheel won't be up to the same (very high) standards. A nipple driver drill bit is very nice to have though if you plan to build more wheels, imo. If you are unsure about the results you can take it to your lbs for the final adjustments

Nipple driver no, just use a screwdriver to get them started then move to a spoke key. Spoke prep, just use boiled linseed oil, cheap and available at most diy stores. And if you're just doing one set, true them in the bike! Flip it upside down, put the wheel in and tie a couple of zipties to the fork legs / stays to get it true. I would also recommend getting it checked out by an LBS too, to make sure tensions are correct if you've not done it before.

Thanks guys, I'll probably just DIY it based on these comments and get my lbs to double check things!

Some builders are using spoke prep for instance

I'm no pro, but I've used Phil's on all my wheels and have had no problems.

On my front low flange Mack Hub, I'm struggling to get both bolts off simultaneously. If I try to undo one it just rotates the axle and consequently undoes/tightens the other bolt. Am I being silly or is there something wrong here? -NVM sorted it.

Upped my game!

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Taking the expression "man cave" literally.

Thank you. Excavation has indeed been moderately successful.

Ok so what tension am I aiming for with my radially spoked 20h front wheel, 38 mm chinese
carbon rim?

One miiiillion

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One miiiillion

Millinewtons

One miiiillion

Millinewtons

100 kgf, you say? Went for around 120 after contacting the www briefly.

Apologies if this has been asked before. In short, the wheel I am building goes out of true when inflated with inner tube.

After riding it out of true ~1-2mm laterally for about 15 miles, the wheel didn't change shape. I deflated it and trued it. When inflated to 90psi again it is out of true by a similar amount. I do not have a tesniometer but judging by sound and by feel the tensions do have some variation. The nipples were not too tight to turn, though a bit lube was applied between them and the rim.

It's a DT Swiss RR411 28H on SP PV-8 with Laser spokes. The tyre is a Schwalbe Pro One tubeless 23mm, currently with innertube as I am sealing it after the build. I have built 3 wheels and they were all okay, but those were 32h wheels with thicker spokes.

Should I be worried about different tensions? Should I just be satisfied with a wheel that is true with inflated tyre, or should I remove the tyre and start over? Oh and the ride felt harsh but not lively, any likely factor other than generally too high tension? Cheers

Silly question but have you stress relieved the spokes thoroughly after truing?