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Thanks and thanks to @russmeyer I think it's ISO so going to take a punt on that, from what I've read it would be an issue of chainline if the spindle & crank didn't match? Trying to work out what width to go with as well but sort of in the dark on that since the old BB was cottered so not sure the length of that will be of much use.
Short of taking a punt and seeing, any suggestions on spindle length? (probably a bit of a how long piece of string). Thinking about 110 as a middle ground since I'll be running it to a fixed hub at the back.
Heaps of clearance and space for mudguards is really ideal if she decides to keep riding it out of the summer, else its a win for me as it solves my winter commuter search! Aiming for 32s need to try and source some on here. Porteur bars were my thought, I've got a few things laying around so will pop on each one and see if she has a preference.
Great shout on the flat shifter (would go for 1x8), hadn't thought about the learning curve for a dt shifter!
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velohobbit
You can check the tapers by throwing on a crankset of which you know whether it's jis or iso. With a jis crank on an iso taper, the crank will use almost the full length of the taper and there is a risk that the taper will bottom out. The tapered bit is a bit longer on iso spindles when compared to jis. I'd go with a single ring in the front, did it like this on both bikes I built for my partner since she never used the front mech anyway. Given that the frame has mudguard eyelets and a relaxed geo, there's probably enough space for chunky tires. I'd go with 32c and some mudguards to make it more usable. As for bars, in my experience, ladies often like porteur bars with a bit of sweep. Also, make sure the reach is not too long. Having an uncomfortable riding position has a deterring effect especially for beginners. If you want to put on gears, I'd look for some flat bar shifters (or a single one for the rear mech) since many newbies don't get along with dt shifters, especially in traffic.