Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

i have just installed a set and they worked fine today. may well work well for you on your short ikkle biek jaunts as you'd just take the spare pad inserts and not have to carry the full spare shimano finned pads

Cheers Scobes. I didn't spray it. Lubed relatively carefully from a bottle, so I hoped it wouldn't contaminate.

Even spinning cranks and running through gears etc straight after lubing can throw enough lube off the chain that some will reach the rotor.

Even spinning cranks and running through gears etc straight after lubing can throw enough lube off the chain that some will reach the rotor.

Guess I'll count myself lucky that I've never achieved this. I would have thought the amount would be so minimal as to be burned off pretty quickly too, which aint gonna happen if you've got a leaky piston seal...

I guess it depends what lube you use, how much etc.

I can be a bit heavy handed with lube application on the bikes at work (pre cursas so no brakes to be worrying about) and have seen the spray off land on the opposite chain stay in a place where if there was a rotor, it'd have hit it. I guess the Matt finish on the pre cursa maybe shows it up more than other finishes might.

I've also found oily grime on the brake side of my Day One and I know I'm meticulously careful about not spraying anything at that bike and where I'm aiming lube bottles and stuff. It was during winter so I think a combination of slight over lubrication plus drivetrain getting wet had meant that enough was flinging off the chain to get over there.

As for burning off, I don't think there's enough speed or weight involved to burn off much at all.

Completed the tubeless/disc upgrade at the weekend, and really happy at the ease of installation of the TRP Spyre, and great action. Broke it in on a 40 mile country ride in the dry, so still anticipating the obligatory squealing come the first rain fall.

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Did you buy a pair of brakes or just the one? Considering a disc front on my commuter

Just the single front, and so far the stock pads and rotor are performing admirably.

Is it normal for disc brakes to start squealing after prolonged use, eg in the middle of descending Ventoux? I've got RS785 with shimano pads and Hope floating rotors.

Prolonged use will heat the rotors and 'glaze' the surface of the (resin) pad. Sand the pad surface to remove the glazed material and it should be fine again. Next time don't drag the brakes as much!

know I should have bought one of those frames all those years back :(

Best money I ever spent on a frame, especially as they discounted them to £240 for a time. You still get them coming up for sale on here...

I've got TRP Spyres and the front has developed a juddery feeling.
Only happens on hard braking and it wasn't doing this before.
I've checked the headset is tight, all the caliper mounting bolts are too.
Any idea what this could be?

Haha, read back a few pages, this discussion has been had at least 3 times! In short: Change the rotor and pads and you'll be gold.

Okay, thanks. Believe me I tried not to brake too much... At the end of the day I was still going down for 20km, the better part of it at 10%, in pitch black :) Descending at night is cool for the lack of traffic, not so cool for unannounced wildlife.

The braking actually sorted itself out a few km down the road (luckily as I had still 100km to go), so I thought the squealing was due to over-heating or something, but I guess just braking more will also remove the glazed surface on the rotor.

Totally understand, it's even worse on the tandem!

Thanks. Very lazy of me.

After having said that, my front Spyre with Ice-Tech rotors and shimano resin pads just started making the most horrific noise. Was near the bottom of a 500m drop, 6km descent, and the fork was visibly deflecting 5-10mm and juddering. It's obviously something to do with heat, maybe the rotor warming up and expanding so the pads catch the 'arms' a fraction of a mm more than they normally do. Swapped the pads out as there was just less than 1mm left on the old ones and we'll see if that helps!

Less than 1mm left on the pads might well have been the problem.

Still a ticking when I rode to the pub, time will tell if the new pads bed in nicely though. The rotor does have a slight gold colour where it's obviously got hot.

check the actual brake track is in the right place on the rotor?

Old pads seemed to be perfectly positioned, will have to check new ones.

How do I know what the right place on the rotor is?

Check the shiny new track from the pads is neither too high or too low

Not the best illustration:

and/or check that the pads dont overhang the rotor:

I'm totally new to the world of hydraulic disc brakes so this might be a stupid question but here goes anyway...

I've just received some Rival Hydro shifters / calipers. I have internal routing and want to fit the rear first so I can put the bb in, chainset etc. How on earth do I disconnect the hose from the caliper and run it through the frame without fluid going everywhere? SRAM seem to talk about a connectmajig and I've looked online but can only really see info about seatposts.

Help much appreciated!