Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

I'm going back to commuting on the Inbred and only riding in the dry.

If I stopped spending money on worn out bike parts I could be living in Spain/Italy already.

#backtothefairweather

The R520 rims on my TT bike are almost dead but they did all the TTing and most of the training for my 24hr racing (5 seasons?) and things like PBP qualifiers, etc in all weather. Not sure how many pads I went through but I'm sure the costs are waaaay in its favour compared to this disc brake shit.

Does the pad wearing like this mean it's misaligned? Or nothing to worry about if braking seems ok?

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Definitely looks wrong. Is your brake adapter on upside down?

Well, anything is possible, I am totally ignorant with disc brakes. But it seemed right when I put it together. This is what it looks like...

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Is your brake adapter on upside down?

Think you've nailed it.

I'll reverse it and try again. Cheers

Sand down that corner first, or new pads.

I'd run it, just to see what would happen

Living dangerously, that's me.

I've found some new resin pads. I'm going to run them until I replace the disc rotor.

I have these. really good!

New to disc brakes- BB7s on a recent Tri-Cross purchase is my first.

Under braking the rim front wheel appears to move towards the caliper by 2-3mm. At first thought it was just my perspective but now I'm convinces the wheel is flexing. Is this normal and if so what are the standard tolerances? Or do I need to get the wheel looked at and retensioned?

Tighten up your QR?

I'll use the Shimano ones for now but after TABR I'll look at fitting some of these.

Nope seems solid at the axle and there is no play at the hub.

Check the spoke tensions but could well be the fork flexing a bit, front discs do a fair amount of work.

What are those tabs on pad holders/springs for? I'd assume they're a guide for orientation but they seem symmetrical, and most pads have no reference either.

Trp hyrd . Swapped my forks over from kinesis to whisky over the winter . Nothing else changed and now the front brake squeeeeeeelllzzzzzz like a bitch . Worked fine before any ideas ! Cleaned rota with ipa . Headset tight . Stem tight.

The resin fronts got me 5000k.

That is awesome going considering I get customer who burnt through their rim brake pads in around 1,000k.

Even a heavy handled one managed their v brake pads before their free 6 weeks service!

I don't think I brake all that much, I'm a fairly experienced rider so can anticipate a lot of stuff and ride around it rather than jam on the anchors - I do ride through all conditions though so probably get a lot of shit thrown on the bike. I don't know what to expect from metal pads I just figured they'd last forever or something. I've now got new 160/160 rotors and metal pads on both so that should get me through TABR. I'll take spare resin pads as well.

I have a pair of Shimano RS785s. At some point I hit a pothole while braking and blew something in the front caliper, spewing mineral oil all over the place. A reputable bike shop told me the calipers were missing O-rings, that some of them came out of the factory like that, and (I thought) did the job of replacing them. Problem solved.

I then realised at some point that my rear pads were contaminated, so cleaned rotors, replaced pads and marvelled at the improved braking performance. At the time I didn't connect the two things.

After months of improved braking performance, I turned the bike upside down for some routine maintenance and, what do you know, next time out, rear pads squealing (front totally fine), no braking power at the rear, back to square one.

Did said reputable bike shop only do half the job? I had thought not until now as I don't think I'm leaking fluid.

Should I

a) Clean rotors, replace pads again, never turn bike upside down
b) Source and fit said O-rings (any guidance on where to source and how to fit much appreciated)
c) bleed and replace oil (first time for this)
d) all of the above

I turned the bike upside down for some routine maintenance

Did this include lubing your chain?

novatec cxd clincher discs.....any experience?
i hear good things.....but....
i also hear , 100Km service intervals for rear hub!

Ah, yes.

I did get a lots of customer whom lubricated their chain heavily often get contaminated disc.

Also most of them spray GT85 directly at the chain and cassette not being aware that it also come in contact with the disc rotor.