-
• #3777
If all else fails it's inverse rotor shim tiem
-
• #3778
@snottyotter ta! I'll give that a go
@chiroshi Nah one pad is rubbing and the other is dead far away.
@Howard ...inverse ...rotor shim???
-
• #3779
Ah, inverse the rotor shim, obviously the problem.
-
• #3781
I googled it, I think that means you win...
I spread the pads (using an actual pad spreader!!!), pushed the caliper so the outboard pad was against the rotor, gave it a few squeezes then pushed the caliper as outboard as it goes and tightened up. Gave a few more squeezes and things seem to be okay now.
Cheers @snottyotter! -
• #3782
S'alright.
-
• #3783
Back to hating on them. Wish there was some kind of wear indicator. Killed front rotor yesterday. Need to add a diary entry for regular pad inspection. I'm sure the disc pads don't last near as long as rim brake pads.
Does anyone make thicker pads for Shimano road discs?
Can I add brake fluid to the system after it has been bled, without doing any weird shit like removing shifters?
-
• #3784
I'm sure the disc pads don't last near as long as rim brake pads.
This is certainly my experience on my Audax bike
-
• #3785
I've only ever seen them last far longer, but you are a bit of an edge case as far as usage goes. Try sintered instead of resin if you want longer lasting, but give the remaining rotor a good clean and slight sand before changing pad types.
-
• #3786
And about 5x the price :(
-
• #3787
I'm using metal pads. The resin fronts got me 5000k, 4000 of which was TCR. Think I bought metal pads in Feb but would need to look at mileage.
Rim pads are obvious when worn too, not like disc that go from working to eating your rotor in seconds
-
• #3788
Try uberbike sintered
5k sounds good to me. A rim brake pad that gave you that would probably have taken the rim with it
Got about 2000mi. From the stock magura pads on my XC biek
Different kinda braking tho - less dragging I'd imagine
-
• #3789
Check more often, it's only looking slightly further down than the rim.
-
• #3790
200km on my semi-metallic nukeproof pads. Probably in part thanks to my poor descending skills with a lot of dragging through gritty Welsh puddles. All the same won't be buying again.
-
• #3791
Wet + cold + sand = dead brake pad, regardless of make
-
• #3792
I can't see any difference between new and worn, especially since everything is covered in brake dust. Stupid brakes.
-
• #3793
If you look from the right direction onto a lightish surface you should be able to see the rotor, a small gap each side and the pads, of the pads you should be able to see the backplate and pad material, I usual find it's easier to pull the brakes on and off a bit while checking. If you can't see pad material you waited too long between checking.
-
• #3794
Do those swappable fins work? I'm guessing they're not quite as effective as the built in ones but quite a bit cheaper.
Anyone used uberbike pads on the road?
-
• #3795
Dunno. Never tried em. Certainly seems preferable to binning a bloomin' heatsink every time you wear out a set. I'd say try them but bring another set of Shimanos with you if it's a true epic...
-
• #3796
I've pulled the pads out. They don't actually look too bad. One pad is 'toed' because the caliper is on a slight angle to stop it making noise all the time due (slight bend in rotor I guess?) but neither of them is down to the back plate.
-
• #3797
TABR = 7000k across the USA.
I will be carrying spare pads. At the rate I'm going I'll be carrying two sets and also rotors and calipers and a bleed kit and...
-
• #3798
Yup, though from memory they did look to be physically thinner than the shimano pads they were replacing (when they were new obviously), which does seem to be the catch when buying budget pads. Will give Gorilla pads a go on @t_w's recommendation.
-
• #3799
Can you lot see this?
There's only one edge of the outer pad that is close to being worn. I've taken previous pads down to the metal so I don't know why this was making so much noise. Perhaps there was something stuck in there after all and I pressure washed it out? I dunno. I'm handing the whole mess to a shop and throwing money at them to see if they do better.
-
• #3800
The pad on the left is finished. Right hand side not so much. With the pad on the left, the return spring might have been hitting the rotor.
I just binned a pair that were slightly less worn than that.
When one pad is rubbing, is the other one far away from the rotor? If not, then the pistons may have just been pushed out at some point by accident. Also, how does the rotor look in the body of the brake? If the rotor is well centred w.r.t the caliper then it is definitely a piston problem unless the pad isn't seated properly.