1948 Rotrax - latest project

That point seems a long way ahead at the moment @baguette! The chrome fork ends and drop outs are pretty poor condition, I don't think the chrome is even saveable. I'm not sure at the moment what direction this restoration will go in, but for the moment I'm happy to put the hours in to try and recover what's left of the original finish.

Very interesting project, sub'd!

ditto :)

If you do decide to sell this let me know and name your price Quiet_Mike ! It even appears to be about the perfect length for my needs. Lovely work on that frame by the way, coming up a treat-what did you use to clean it up without scratching etc?

+1

Curious too as to how you managed this, impressive! That head tube is so beautiful!

Cheers Jeff, that's nice to know. I did have my doubts when we detoured on the way home from the old folks to pick it up. I was chuffed to own a Rotrax of course, but really? This was a pup. It's takes a lot of imagination to see through the rust and at it's potential. As nice as it is to say you own a Rotrax, a rusty frame hanging from the rafters is hardly a bicycle. Fingers crossed we can get this machine rolling again. Despite the corrosion, it's a lovely thing to handle. Light as a feather.

Thanks for the compliments everyone. Updates will be sporadic but I'll try and keep it moving.
What did I do to reveal the original finish? Well I hung the head in a old ice cream tub full of white vinegar. Now that vinegar was already a week or so old, and had been used to clean the pedals and cranks and such, so was now a very dark brown, not clear. I think that does not help. Anyway after two days I took the frame out and the vinegar had hardly touched the rust, I could see little difference. So then I used a pretty worn out Scotch brite kitchen scourer, dipped in the vinegar, and very gently rubbed the rust in small areas, very lightly. I was just impatient to see what was underneath. The rust slowly rubbed away to reveal the celeste paint underneath. I also used this method on the transfer areas too, but not without much trepidation, as I was pretty sure I'd do irrevocable damage. Basically it's like picking a scab, it's difficult to stop once you start.
I'm not sure if it's done any damage to the paint, but it's an aggressive treatment and not one I'm totally happy about. Through posting on facebook I've had advice about leaving the frame in for a couple of weeks, not a couple of days. Also on using Oxalic Acid. Big-Block has also given good advice on how to make a frame shaped bath. Although scrubbing has quick results, I'd really like to try the full bath method for a much longer period.

Looks great so far! Love the details on the parts!
You should give a citric acid bath a go for removing the rust, I recently used it on some well rusted forks and it worked much better than my previous vinegar efforts.

Easy to get hold of and no vinegar smell so can be done indoors : )

Wow, you are the master at showing what a little bit of time and patience can do. That's looking amazing and just the sort of finish that I'd expect from one of your bikes Mike. Probably be winning more Eroica competitions with this one for sure if it continues like this.

After a couple of evenings gentle scrubbing.

Is the bolt on the BB-shell made for lubrication?

Yes, using an oil or grease gun. There is also a grease nipple on the head tube as well.

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the level of patina is too damn high on this one!

Wow, that looks amazing! PLEASE don't repaint this, all it needs is oil, grease and wax to preserve that finish.

Echoing others, looks fantastic. Having read your other thread about the Eroica bike I feel confident this is going to turn out just right!

Good Lord that turned out VERY well. Extremely well done again

That is a fantastic result! You have inspired me to have a go at my own frame and see if anything is left under the hand paint job.

Ha! Thank you, but seriously, I've barely tickled it, and just with stuff found under the kitchen sink. There is a long way to go on this ...
Tonight I tried wheels on the frame, to see what I needed. The 27" Alumlite fit, but there isn't much room between the tyre and the bridge, and I don't think the brake calipers will touch the rims. I'm fairly sure now it'll take 26" rims, so the search is on for something suitable. (And affordable!) I've already been offered an alloy Sturmey Archer cage, as I'd like to keep the SA 3/4 speed.

Signed up for the Retro Ronde this weekend, so decided to build the Rotrax up for it!
Test fit with a couple of wheels robbed from the stable.
I was trying to decide what brake and gear cable colour to go for at this point, and also handlebar tape ...

Parts delivered, now to put it all together!
In the end I decided on burnt orange, to match the downtube transfer. Heaviliy influenced by Big Blocks lovely Hobbs with yellow details.
Rear wheel is a 1950 4 speed Alloy case SA hub, spokes tied and soldered, on a Dunlop Special Lightweight rim. I was rather pleased to pick it up for £41. Need to find a matching front wheel rim now, which I would like to lace onto that original Reynolds(?) large flange front hub you can see in the box.
Rusty 1948 Rotrax build by Mike, on Flickr

Newbaums tape - £8
Brake blocks - £4
Brake and gear cable set - £5
SA gear cable - £2
Rear wheel - £41
Azumi chain - £11

And where to go on its first test ride today? How about 132 Shirley Road, where it was built in 1948!
Everything seems to be behaving itself so far. Gears adjusted and all engaging properly and not slipping. Now I'm happy with where the brakes and SA lever are on the 'bars, I'll add the cotton tape tonight. Not sure I'll keep that saddle on there, I have a honey coloured B17 on another bike I might swap over.

And where to go on its first test ride today? How about 132 Shirley Road, where it was built in 1948!

Lovely!

Great stuff. Please can we have better resolution pics??

just click on the Flickr link.

Eager to see photos with the bar tape on.
Are you going to put it on damp and let it tighten up as it dries?

A few shots of the prep for the Retro Ronde ride at the weekend. Please excuse my poor grammer and lack of usual good humour and bonhomie, I'm flagging a bit after tackling some big rides for me!

Handlebar tape - luckily I only wanted to do half of the bars, as I only bought one roll. I didn't realise that would only do one full bar! I just cut it in half and got it as far round as I could.

No, I didn't dampen it. I will try that next time though.

SA trigger and bell went back on exactly where they were before. The trigger works well there, but I did skin my thumb on it when I had to do an emergency stop in town when someone tried to T bone me. Bell is awkward, as you can't rest your hands on top of the levers with it there. I prefer it on the stem, like I've done on the Jim Guard.

Bluemel Olympics picked up from the first Eroica Britannia for £15. (Rain is forecast for the weekend ... ) The Olympics have really weird stay attachments and I'm not sure how they are supposed to work. I've just cut down some stays and shoved them in. (And no, that didn't work well.)

I'll post some photos from the trip next ...