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@bt
Definitely use the ferries - Mennagio, Varena, Bellano are all lovely. Bellagio is more touristy, loads of shops selling overpriced handbags and other rubbish.
For local cuisine, eat some pizzoccheri - loads of places do it, delicious buckwheat pasta dish.
If you get to Mennagio go to Osteria Il Pozzo for some delicious meaty eats - osso buco / rabbit and polenta etc. So delicious.
A bit further up in San Siro, right on the lakeside there's a small restaurant called Creme Caramel - they do great pizza.
The botanical gardens at Villa Carlotta are incredible - especially at this time of year.