Cinelli Pa(RAW)llax 52cm

The only problem with bright pink is it will end up looking like an Aventon/dosnoventa...

not always a bad thing tbf.

Not sure if you're trolling lol.

Fades, always fades. @Borek knows it.

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Yeah ive always liked this parallax.
One of my favourite bikes.

There's hardly a way around using filler to make smooth transitions out of Aluminium welds. Alu welds are pretty wide and tall.

Not true, but wide- yes.

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I believe the welds were layered up on the dales giving more material to work with. Not sure it adds much in the way of structural integrity.

Colour doesn't seem to be something to rely on for usage of fillers

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Yup, double pass welds on cannondales

Wether it adds structural integrity or not doesnt really matter,
My point is regardless of the process to achieve it, there is a way to give it a better finish.
Just really surprised cinelli would cut corners like this.

Is that an older mash? I actually prefer this than the messy welding and filler on the new ones.

That's from my 2014 Histogram. The welds look different though

Just a terrible first attempt at rawing a frame tbh, paint was really thick, so had to sand/scrape off the last bits, didn't notice how much damage i was doing, shit happens!

the white bits are filler that was under the paint, tried to sand off as much as i could

few coats of primer and it would look fine, maybe grey primer the frame, matt black the fork and get some transparent black to shade over the grey

Its cool, like i said im not complaining,
I was Just a little baffled when i took the paint off.

Anyway, I've started to take off the filler from the welds and started smoothing out some of the deeper scratches.

And can abybody tell me if there is an easier way to remove filler rather than sanding?

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A file or dremel?

Aren't fillers supposed to fix welding errors like pockets and stuff, therefore necessary to provide enough strength?

You will find filler on almost every mass produced aluminium and carbon frame at the junctions to smooth imperfections in the manufacturing process and make it look nice once painted .. it is the most economic method available.

If you're going to repaint it you should probably leave the filler intact or it's going to look shit

Something non abrasive like a chemical?

Sanding is very long and Labour intensive.

I dont think it provides any structural support, its just to give it a better finish.

Not necessarily, but yes it is the most economic method.

Im probably going to try polish it first as some of the scratches i was worried about seem to be coming out, its slow and painful but it seems to be working so lets see what happens.
If that fails i guess ill just have to fill the welds again :/ haha.

You could get a roll of emery cloth P400 grit. That is what they use to finish steel ready for chrome plating, which leaves a very smooth surface as chrome plating would otherwise show any imperfections.
2 to 3cm wide strips would be enough to work around those welds as they do to with fillet brazing.
You could even ask at the chromers for some offcuts as they sometimes cut them to size to fit their wide machines and throw away the rest.
There is even like a putty/wax they use which helps during the process.

Very fine '0000' steel wool and Autosol would also help for a better finish but you would have to clean well with soapy water after as the paint might not stick well.

If i kept it i would of redone it

I think the para comes with filler and the other models don't, my histo and experience doesn't have any filler, but sanding down the welds might not be the best idea