Let's offroad / mountain bike / mtb / ride dirt

errrr... I was just about to come into this thread to ask for advice about buying and building my first mtb from second hand parts... Maybe I'll just go back to browsing new bikes.

There was no spacer, nothing that seemed to be impeding the passage of the axle through the BB.

The only 3 possibilities I can think of are:

1. The axle on the Stylo cranks is too short - seems impossible as having a 68mm BB shell, if anything, the only issue should be is that the axle is too long.
   
2. The axle is fucked
   
3. The axle is as far through the BB as it is supposed to go, and it's actually the threads on the bolt on the NDS crank arm AND/OR the threads on the axle that are fucked
   

Do you know Skinny Eric's in Hackney Wick? Never had any problems with them, and they sorted out some hydraulic brakes for me.

The axle on the Stylo cranks is too short - seems impossible as having a 68mm BB shell, if anything, the only issue should be is that the axle is too long.

I agree.

The axle is fucked

The axle is as far through the BB as it is supposed to go, and it's actually the threads on the bolt on the NDS crank arm AND/OR the threads on the axle that are fucked

I agree.

It's very unlikely, but is there a spacer on the cranks?

I've just had a similar problem fitting a set of rotor flow cranks to my TT bike. It turns out that if you buy 2nd hand rotor cranks that started out as OEM cranks on a Cervelo then they have a 15mm spacer built into the spider that means they can't be used on a regular 68mm BB shell without replacing the spacer with a regular sized lockring.

I don't know about the Style cranks, but possibly something similar going on?

see here (post 206 onwards): https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/231362/?offset=200#comment13630826

I'd say from my recent experience, either new, or 2nd hand complete in the exact spec you want and confident it all works - so buy in person and test-ride with knowledge of how everything should work.

My plan for a bargainous build is maybe £150 over budget, and not far off the cost of a £1000 C2W bike (once you remove tax)

but once I've repaired or replaced the front brake it will be all Deore and up with decent wheels and forks on an 853 Dialled frame

Cue everyone telling me it's shit value for money

853 PA is a great frame, and super-strong. Hope to see it in Epping some time :-)

Ask in the 29er thread

I will re-examine tonight, but even if this spacer were to exist, it isn't an issue at the moment.

The Stylo cranks are 2-pc - the axle is attached to the spider and DS crank arm.

Once the axle is pushed through the BB as far as it will go, the spider sits outboard of the BB seal by about 5mm. So it's not that there's a spacer stopping the axle going through any further, more the axle diameter changes almost imperceptibly.

Don't know them but will give them a try. Thanks!

SBC

Maybe I'll just go back to browsing new bikes.

One day someone on 'ere will see my harping on about the calibre bossnut and think 'yeah, that actually is amazballs value for money, bombproof and not totally fugly'

Then build something out of used bits and have a horrible time

I found out how tricky MTB stuff had become the hard way too. Frustrating and expensive.

I was actually pretty lucky when I tried this -

• bought Kona complete from Scobel
  
• binned busted kona frame, sold P2 fork
  
• bought cheapy alu Cannondale frame for £75
  
• Transfered Kona drivetrain, wheels and tyres
  
• bought new rebas from ebay for £250
  
• bought used disc brake from ebay for £30
  
• Had a horrible time getting a headset for cray cray headshok headtube
  
• Built up bike, had rad funz
  
• Used disc brake exploded
  
  

Then I bought a Titanium hardtail and a 160mm travel fork.

Escalated quickly etc.

I haven't seem you harping about this at all so clearly it's not been enough.

I wouldn't buy a used (older) fork again from a stranger. And I wouldn't buy a used dropper full stop. Everything else I will keep on quite happily not paying retail, because I am le poor and the vast majority of time it works fine.

It's all a marvelous learning curve, but I still try and swerve stuff I don't understand, like any bottom bracket that isn't BSA threaded.

£900!! 130mm Travel!! Full-Suss! Rockshox!! Shimano!! WTB!! Dropper Compatible!! Modern Geo!! £900!!!!!!! MOTHER OF GOD AN ACTUAL WARRANTY

http://www.gooutdoors.co.uk/calibre-bossnut-full-sus-mountain-bike-p347143

IT'S TOO LATE HOWARD. l'VE ALREADY SPENT MY MONEY :-(

Not as cool as a Dialed

Sadrat, you're Dialed will shit on anything you could've got Cyclescheme.
Don't worry about the besmirching, I do a good job on myself.

Oh, I don't think we should go to BPW😶

er.... but, where else will we go?

HOLD ONE EVERYONE. I FORGOT THE FUNNIEST BIT.

When I first assembled it, I didn't have a 180mm rotor, only 2 160s, so I left the front rotor off the front wheel in anticipation of purchasing a 180mm rotor.

Having never worked with a thru-axle wheel before, I thought I had assembled the wheel in the forks correctly, but when I span the wheel, it would spin ~270 degrees and then stop. It would also not spin backwards very far either.

Cue me taking it off the forks, and re-assembling about 10 times with no resolution.

Eventually I realised that one of the rotor bolts was un-screwed far enough to hit the fork leg.

If only there was a mechanically simple form of bikes with like completely minimal moving parts. Like extreme. Like not even a freewheel to go wrong.