Dynamo Lights

Yep Smart Lunar R1 £5. And it is cool. @amey who shrunk the wheels?

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Cabling (brake/gear) up my bike last night. Don't have light mounts yet, but wondering about space for internally routing dynamo cables. As it is, I'm fairly sure I won't be able to fit the cables in the ducts along with the existing outers.

Can I strip the housing from the dynamo lights, squeeze the wires through, then somehow reattach lengths of outers to the exposed wiring outside of the frame?

Errr I am no electrician but if the stripped wire has any kind of contact with the metal frame of your bike, I think it'll short. But I could be, and probably am, wrong. Wouldn't recommend though. If the tiniest bit of water were to run down the outer and then contact the exposed wire, you'll probably be fucked again. Especially seeing as it's for TCR. Bad bad bad idea.

You not get a second entry hole for dynamo wiring?

There are 2 lots of wiring - an outer jacket and then two inner wires both wrapped. I just wanted to cut away the exterior.

As in, heat shrink/similar? Yeah you'll be fine. I did think it sounded a bit dangerous!
As long as that bit is still there - you're good.

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I want to wire my cables through my forks like this ^ any tips for getting the cables through?

The good ol' string and vacuum cleaner trick.

@Sparky don't get the Alfine hub. They're 1.5w. You won't get full power out of any lights. Go with what @Skülly said. the N80 is a great hub for the money, unless you can go for an SP for the same price. Then again, I'm biased. I've also totally submerged my SP and it's still going strong.

@Heldring a good swear word dictionary.

There's a 3W version of the Alfine dynohub too (DH-S501).

It's already arrived. Have I bought a duffer?

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Do shimano do a thru axel 3w model?

Does anyone know of a small rear dynamo light similar in size and power to the supernova lights but will work with a normal front light?

Am using the small B&M lights and they're fine, but would like something smaller.

Nah, spot on. That'd the XT branded 3D80 (top of the line), I have one and it's fine.

I'm using a rear supernova hooked on a b+m luxos - apparently I'm not supposed to do that (didn't know about it when I ordered all the things) but it works just fine and I haven't fried anything so far.

Whattrtttttttt!

I actually asked about that on the previous page :)

I've been using this setup for 1700 km (and a good chunk of them in the dark too) and so far so good. I might go back to a b+m secula anyway because not having a rear light when stopped is a bit of a pain.

That might explain why supernova rear doesn't match other fronts ... the capacitor in the rear doesn't charge. I had something similar when I rigged up two rears in sequence, in that the latter rear in sequence wouldn't have the standlight.

It has to be said that very few really good rear lights seem to exist. I have a B&M mudguard one (secula) that I'm constantly knocking the red cover off, have resorted to using some wire to strap it on.

Interesting, thanks.

Have you done any side by side comparasion with a supernova that is connected to a supernova front light? i.e do you think it's less bright, or just no standlight?

(and yes should've UTFS)

I have two b&m rear lights wired in parallel (this may be the key) and the stand light works on both. Must say, I've found the secula really good, just needs a shorter bolt!

Don't know if this has been posted yet

http://www.cyclingabout.com/dynamo-hub-drag-lab-testing/

Makes you want a SON and then you remember that it's only saving you 1.5W (unloaded) for your £150 over the 3N80!
Nice that he's put the results into context with respect to other added drag (from panniers/tyres/load etc).

Yep, rewired parallel already. I think we may have discussed this before.
#groundhogday

1.5W unloaded? From what I recall from an ancient Chris Juden CTC article, I thought the penalty of an unloaded hub over a decent non-dyno hub was <<<1W, so that sounds awfully high.

So reading off the data provided for the dynamo without an electrical load, the SON28 uses ~1.5 W at 30 kph and the 3N80 uses just under 3 W at 30 kph. Likewise, it's ~6.5 and ~7.5 W under their test load at 30 kph. That's where I got my 1.5 W difference.
Schmidt's own testing has a non-dynohub as a control and they reckon 0.5 W at 30kph (with the SON28 at 1.5 W and the 3N80 at 2 W).

Either way, my point was that the SON is glorious but you don't save that much in power terms (although you gain in reliability as the Shimano isn't really designed to be serviced).

This is basically magic, isn't it?

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