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So, with small spacers and long chainring bolts you think 'd be able to get away with it?
I didn't even use particularly long bolts, just the stock ones from the FC-S500 cranks. The drive is provided by friction between the rings and the spider, so as long as there's enough thread engagement to support the required bolt tension, the tubular nuts don't actually have to engage in the final drive ring. It's a clutch, not a pin drive.
So, with small spacers and long chainring bolts you think 'd be able to get away with it? - I think that would be easier, because changing the timing chain also means changing the timing rings.