Current Projects chat and miscellany

Sounds good, have a link or sth?

e: these?

I'm 90% happy with my cane creeks, the shape is nice but the rubber is too hard for my liking...

I have an unused fork crown hanger if you need one?

damn, i just bought one online yesterday, which one is it?

might be interested if its different to the one ive ordered as i feel there may be interference with the headset on the build!

This one I think. I've had it a while...

Yeah thats the one I already ordered, if its going free i'll take it off your hands though ;)

Best,

Harrison.

Dropped you a PM

TT extensions as a functional mod to cope with the dutch headwinds.

1 Attachment

"Headwinds"

Sounding like @skrtluv

Bike looks good though, like the colour. What gearing you using?

Ha! currently working on a fog set-up ;) Gear ratio is 52x19 and a good compromise.

wehrend zou in germanz_

werent you in germany? (i blame zee zjerman keyboard and autocorrect for the previous post)

not exclusively

Was planning to upgrade the groupset on my Dave Yates at the weekend, only to find the drive side BB cup was stuck fast in the frame:

Shot down to Halfords for some support:

After two days of 'liberal application', the BB cup remained steadfastly stuck. More to the point, constant efforts to remove the cup have started to shred the splines where the removal tool engages.

I am determined to get this fucker out, and want to avoid, at all costs, having to apply heat to the BB shell - the paint on this frame is just too precious.

So this morning, I have called up the heavy artillery:

Plan is to apply daily 'till the weekend, then have another pop at removal.

Fingers crossed.

Those are some shredded splines!
Attach Bottom bracket tool to a bench vice and turn the frame for more leverage?

^ in addition to the above, can you bolt the tool to the cup? I've used threaded rod, some wood on the other side and a couple of nuts. Means the tool can't slip. You need a tool with a hole in the socket though.

I've done this for friends a few times.

How I did it, get a huge bolt and 3 nuts that fit inside the BBshell, but won't fit through the cup. Tighten them as far as they will go (dubbelnutting so you can turn the bolt with a nut) and then just turn the nut.

Or get a hacksaw and saw 2 sides of the cup so you can fit a headset wrench on it.

Another small niggle building up the 80s 'dale MTB, crown race slipped on the steerer without hammering. A single turn of PTFE tape took off the slack, but is this a valid long term solution? Or should I look at something like Loctite 641?

Both interfaces are 26.4mm and in good condition without notable wear. The headset is roller bearing Stronglight X14, which I'd like to use on this build.

you could also saw in two slots on the inside of the cup and put a flat piece of steel (thick one) in them. hold the thing in a vice and use the frame as a lever. had to do it once on a steel bianchi - when it finally gave, it went with a ping. i felt like the ping shattered my bones and almost flew to the end of the shed due to the springiness of the steel frame and the force exerted on it...

oh and the reason i had to do this is that the "bolt the tool through the frame then use a big ass spanner on the tool, step on it and pull yourself down on the frame" method just sheared all 20 splines clean.

Sorry, a bit late with my comment here, but I always felt using a narrow-wide chainring in a single-speed setup is just plain wrong...

Was tired of not riding fixed so moved all of my bits over to this. Really good fun, not surprised people end up holding on to these for years.

Another method is to put a hacksaw through the BB and saw two slots near each other into the shell, then use a vice to crush the end of the BB, the wedge between the two slots should come out and the rest of the BB with it.

Aesthetically or fictionally?

Functionally in the first place, but then aesthetically and also when I think how much money went to waste... :)

Purely because it's a 3/32?