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• #83277
Looks like the finish flaking to me.
Rub it back and see if it disappears.
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• #83278
Mostly hybrid friendly, as long as you have 32c & above tyres with a reasonable amount of tread.
We just like to pretend that it's mountain biking :-)
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• #83279
Perfectly fine, old MTB were 17mm internal with 1.95 tyres to give you an idea.
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• #83280
See my Strava link from the weekend rides thread. Done on a track bike with 23mm 115psi and high 70s GI. much fun
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• #83281
I would like replace the fork on my partner's bike - current fork has a 45mm offset and 401mm axle to crown.
Eyeing up the Thorn Disc Steel Fork which has offset of 46mm (assume that's fine) but is only 383mm axle to crown.
Is that 18mm difference going to be a problem? I assume the answer is yes!
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• #83282
Surly's own? The straggler fork is 400 a-t-c.
What are you looking to change it for?
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• #83283
Is that 18mm difference going to be a problem? I assume the answer is yes!
It will make a difference. Whether that amounts to a problem is another matter. Do you want to steepen the head angle by 1°, reduce the trail by 7mm and lower the BB by 8mm? That still leaves well inside the range of ridable bikes, assuming your starting point isn't anything radical, but you can avoid doing any of that by picking a 400mm AC fork, which is a common enough size, e.g. Surly Straggler
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• #83284
Does look like a crack, take it off and see if you can pry it.
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• #83286
What's the proper way to connect these wires together?
(they're motorbike indicators)
As an interim fix I'm soldering in the wires to the crimps to make a secure fit.
Cheers
1 Attachment
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• #83287
Is it a secret? Which wires?
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• #83288
Not sure why that didn't attach.
I'm picking up some of these tomorrow http://www.screwfix.com/p/crimp-terminals-pack-500-piece-set/84674?_requestid=414649
as one of the existing ones was too fucked to refix. -
• #83289
What else?
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• #83290
The straggler doesn't accept a 180mm rotor unfortunately, which is what I need.
The disc trucker fork does though, and has the correct offset, but is only 390 AC, so 11mm shorter. Better than 18mm shorter though!
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• #83291
180mm rotor unfortunately, which is what I need.
Why?
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• #83292
Why 180mm? If you need more power, could you not use the money to invest in new brakes instead? Or even rotor, pads, cables etc.
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• #83293
I like 180 on the front as the bike is heavy-ish, often a bit loaded up with extra weight, and I find 180 with spyres comforting!
Probably more importantly though is that we want to share various wheelsets and mine all have 180mm rotors on!
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• #83294
If you have to ask etc.
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• #83296
New to Rotors. What tools do I need to acquire to remove these cranks? Had a look at a few things online be but couldn't find a list of the exact tools. Cheers!
1 Attachment
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• #83297
None of the ones I have. Mine need an allen key and a Shimano lockring tool. Not sure about that dimpled thing - is it just a dust cap or is it a lockring of some sort?
I think bin, then get some new cranks.
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• #83298
Or you could just google it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nrEXRcZkn34
So the drive side doesn't come off, you just need allen keys on the NDS, like Shimano.
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• #83299
Ah thanks! Somehow the googling I did didn't show that up, all the vids I found were for ones like yours sound. Thanks for the help
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• #83300
When I say google, I mean duckduckgo. It tends to provide better results. I use Google more for shopping.
Does this look like a suspect crack or is it a tooling/manufacture mark?