Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

Worth a shot I suppose yeah. I've dropped dt Swiss an 'I'm disappointed' email. The road version of this skewer seems to be out of stock pretty much everywhere so gonna struggle to replace it without their help.

I've got some Hylex (non-drilled version) waiting to go on a new build. A friend at work was saying that his TRP pads (Spyres) were terrible and swapping to Shimano transformed his brakes.

Is this likely, does this apply to Hylex as much as to Spyres, and if so, what is the best option? If the consensus is to swap, I'd rather just build with new pads from scratch rather than swap them after a couple of weeks of fancying about on sub-par brakes.

Stock pads are okay, nothing to write home about but they work. What's the intended usage, i.e. road, off-road, mix of both?

Is this likely, does this apply to Hylex as much as to Spyres, and if so, what is the best option?

They are OK - Shimano organics probably bite better and wear at the same rate. SwissStop do pads too that are supposed to be great but spendy.

Go to shimano resin from the off, they're better and cheap.

Cheers. I'm after general single speed road use, commuting accounting for the vast majority of miles, but I'm trying the one bike life, so this will be used for long road rides and (very) light pouncing about off-road.

I started off sensible, but this build has gone a little overkill, so figured I may as well make sure the pads are as good as can be.

+1 to Shimano resin. Use it for both polo and commuting.

+1 to Shimano resin. Using them for polo, fatbike and all my GF's MTBs.

Just don't ride somewhere that's sandy whilst its raining. Looking at you, Swinley.

Another tick for Shimano Resin, far better value than the (really good) Swisstop.

I need one of these 20mm spacer things for my Spyres as I step up from 160 to 180mm rotor on the front - are they really £10?! https://www.westbrookcycles.co.uk/trp-mount-a11-20mm-post-to-post-disc-brake-adapter-front-or-rear-p285349

Cheaper ones are definitely available but don't go too cheap, I bought one off ebay for about £3 and the holes were too close together making it totally useless.

So recently I fitted a Surly Disc Trucker fork and TRP Hy Rd to my Pompino. It works reasonably well, apart from under hard braking there is a nasty shaking/juddering/clattering that feels and sounds totally wrong. It sounds/feels like something is shaking back and forth several times per wheel rotation - but only happens under hard braking and it stops when you ease off. I've tried recentering the brake, tightening all the bolts, adjusting the headset, and using a better QR but it won't go away.

I took it to a good bike shop this morning, who said it's to be expected using a powerful brake on a thin steel fork. I'm very doubtful about that though.

Any ideas?

Oh yeah, bike shop also suggested using resin rather than sintered pads as less bite might equal less judder. I'm not sure what kind it currently has tho (stock) and I'd rather not reduce braking power.

Any ideas?

Might be the fork deflecting. Or it might be the somewhat basic TRP rotor. Try a different rotor to see if that changes things.

Also might be poorly bedded in. But that's usually accompanied with a honking noise...

Juddering can come from the pads overlapping the spokes of the rotor I think?

Check where on the rotor the pad is contacting and if it's overlapping then either new rotor or a washer or two under the calliper?

Cheers, I see what you mean about the pads maybe contacting the wrong part of the rotor.

No noise, would there be any way to check if the pad is bedded in poorly? I didn't do anything in particular to bed them in...

Will order a new rotor too.

Hmm, more research online and it looks like a lot of other people have had the same problem. TRP have put a video out that blames poorly faced brake mounts, but shows the pads hitting the spokes of the rotor as per @M_V

Things i will try in order:

QR even tighter, with lever on disc side
Copper grease on back of existing pads
New rotor
New pads

I had terrible judder on my front brake with a trp spyre and 160mm rotor. Copper grease on the back of the pads seems to have resolved that but I did also put new pads in at the same time... so could be either.

Copper grease won't have done anything.
I'd never put copper grease near my pads. If it gets onto the pad surface it'll ruin them.
I'd think your pads were worn unevenly. Putting in new pads solved that.

It's possible @lemonade that your rotor is bent, check that carefully. If the pads are old they might be worn funny too.
I'd check the rotor, if that's dead straight then replace the pads with new ones. A bent rotor can be trued.

Also, check your headset. If that's worn or not set up right, it could be causing the movement. IF you've a rear brake, using both at the same time will prevent movement. Try applying the front brake and pushing the bike forward and see if it moves/flexes.

Cheers. I mentioned copper grease as a lot of people online seem to have found this to help with their TRP brake judder. Obvs would be careful not to get any on the front of the pads.

This has happened from brand new so if the rotor was bent it came out of the box that way. From looking at the marks on the rotor where the pads have hit it, they do seem to be perhaps just low enough to be causing trouble with the rotor arms. Perhaps. The rotor itself is also grooved, which doesn't look sensible but surely can't be designed so badly that this would be a problem. I'm talking about the black notches here:

Hy Rds seem to have been sold with about 4 very different designs of rotor, from a look through Google images. Wonder if that's significant.

Headset seems free of play, bike shop agreed.

Weird if from new.

@edscoble might know. If it's worth knowing, he knows it!

I also had, and my girlfriend currently has a similar noise from stock trp rotors. Changing rotor solved it for me.

The Oracle of Scoble

From looking at the marks on the rotor where the pads have hit it, they do seem to be perhaps just low enough to be causing trouble with the rotor arms.

Chuck some small washers between the post mount - will push the caliper higher and take the pads further from the arms. See if that solves the issue. If it does, new post mount adapter time I'd imagine, assuming your surly fork is IS.

It's important to bed disc brake pads in properly. It's basically some heavy consistent braking repeated ten or so times with the aim of heating the pad and getting it to transfer material to the rotor. If you don't do this, your brakes won't feel bitey and they'll transfer uneven layers of material on to the rotor causing judder and noise.

eurgh that is so disappointing! thought they would last forever