Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Thank you. Let me rephrase, none of my 10 speed wheels built on not offset ever needed retruing before replacing. Maybe a bit leading now: the wheel builder wouldn't really need offset to achieve the same result with 11 speed?

Nah not really, but if you can get asymmetric, why not

But there is a difference between offset and asymmetric no? The dt swiss have offset holes, but the rim profile is symmetric.

Now that's confused me!

@chiroshi
The only way to get a decent amount of offset is to make the profile asymmetric. I don't think you can have one without the other.

@fussballclub
For an typical 11spd hub, the dish is greater than 10spd. I would go for an asymmetric rim every time if possible.

Most new shimano rims are asymmetric non?

offset (can) means holes are drilled not in line, but slightly offset left and right for the spokes

random image:

a lot of rims has this (but less extreme)

Would a rebuild with spoke nipple washers sort it out?

I would've thought that would make the situation worse..
The nipples would sit further into the rim.

No, the washers go under the head of the nipple inside the rim. This takes the nipple further away from the hub and longer spokes are therefore required.

Yeah, his spokes were too short. He needs inverse nipple washers.

Sounds intriguing

I know, I was trying to clarify that for others who were using offset to mean asymmetric.

Haha, sorry was having an idiot moment there!

3/4 radial is stiff !
rear drive side radial and spokes by the inside for a good umbrella.
Thanks Mavic for the Inspiring Idea, it woks perfectly !

Is that 32 spoke and 3x on the NDS. I'm a bit confused does "spokes by the inside" mean heads point towards the cassette for all DS spokes? Lost by the umbrella comment.

the NDS looks like a umbrella...

I hope that Campag Record hub shells are really stiff, given that the NDS will be transmitting all the torque. Seems unlikely given the rather narrow centre section. I also hope that your limit adjusters on the rear derailleur are set absolutely correctly, given the heads-in lacing on the DS.

I hope that Campag Record hub shells are really stiff, given that the NDS will be transmitting all the torque. Seems unlikely given the rather narrow centre section

The centre barrel is about twice the diameter of an old-school Record hub and therefore about 16 times the torsional stiffness (also a bit shorter and with the bell housing for the freehub ratchet, which all help). I wouldn't have done it like that myself, since there is no need, but given that Gaston has about 300 bikes and only the same 24 hours in a day as the rest of us, he's unlikely to kill either the wheel or himself. I'd worry slightly more about the high tension of the driveside pulling the flange apart than the barrel not being able to transmit the torque across to the NDS.

The centre barrel is about twice the diameter of an old-school Record hub and therefore about 16 times the torsional stiffness (also a bit shorter and with the bell housing for the freehub ratchet, which all help).

True, but stiffer than old-school Record is pretty low-hanging fruit. It'd be harder to much less stiff than old-school Record while still running a 10mm axle.

I'd worry slightly more about the high tension of the driveside pulling the flange apart than the barrel not being able to transmit the torque across to the NDS.

With 32 spokes even a 100% radial rear build will hold the shot on a OS hub like this one

Anyone still worried about the length of my nipples can relax. Rebuilt the wheel with correct spoke length and regular 12mm nipples, spoke ends just below the nipple heads now. Next time I'll measure everything myself and not trust internet ERD etc.

In addition the torque force is also transmit/compensated by the X3 of the NDS by the almost stiff CXP33 with these double eyelets...

This assembly allows an increased tension on the NDS spokes while maintaining the centering.

internet ERD can>>>>>
use 2 20cm cuted spokes with right Nipples srewed propely in it and measure yourself the ERD's.
20cm+X+20cm = ERD
a bit like this