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• #5902
I'll try another calculator to make sure, but thanks for double checking.
I usually use Arup.
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• #5903
I don't see mention of this on the calculator, but will have a look.
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• #5904
Hi TTM,
I'm not sure about the R460s (not used them), but I had a pair of R450s built up on OnOne hubs on a commute-y Langster and had no problems whatsoever. They kept true and strong. They weren't the cheapest. But, IMHO, they were worth the outlay.
I can't remember what spokes I built them up with (it was a few years back). I think they were DTSwiss and black. I can be more vague, if really pushed!
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• #5905
Ha! Cheers.
I've ended up ordering the Kinlin XR22T's on Miche Primato. Should make a decent and reliable wheel set.
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• #5906
OK, I'm obviously a little late with useful info, then! D'oh!
Let us know how you get on with the Kinlins. -
• #5907
Tune hubs "finishing" LOL. This is on their own website, those are clearly lightweight high performance swarf and aerodynamic burrs.
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• #5908
Has anyone used Hubjub to build wheels before? Buying some rims from there so seems easiest to shoot them the hubs and receive a full wheelset back. Just wanted to check in that there hadn't been any nightmares?
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• #5909
I think I know the sensible answer to this. DS rear, 3x, 36h cassette hub. Lethal?
1 Attachment
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• #5910
All spokes look like that or just one that's too short?
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• #5911
Sorry for being unclear, all of them are a bit short.
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• #5912
Oof, happened to me a few weeks ago, very annoying. It looks like you need at least 2 mm longer spokes. Faulty calculation?
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• #5913
Is the rim fully tensioned and trued? I rode worse when I first started building wheels, but if youre heavy and these are for off road maybe its not the best idea
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• #5914
Faulty calculation?
Yup.
fully tensioned and trued?
Yup.
Thanks for the input guys. Super annoying - I'll have a think, maybe some longer nipples are an option. Or just ride it and​ see what happens. I'm sort of heavy but the wheels aren't for off road.
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• #5915
Be careful longer nipples doesn't always mean a longer thread and the the wheel just won't be as strong if the spokes don't get any closer to the rim
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• #5916
Dt Swiss 16mm nipples effectively add 2mm to your spoke lenght.
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• #5917
yeah I used those nipples not too long ago to remedy the same issue but the other day the wheel got hit kinda hard from the side and the nipple snapped at the point where the spoke met/sat just short of the rim. i felt like it might have handled it a bit better had the spoke actually sat inside the rim a touch. might still have broken...
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• #5918
Yup. It's not the best solution. But one that semi works, if you are not ready to buy new spokes.
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• #5919
Got new spokes instead. That'll teach me :-)
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• #5920
Do I need offset XR22 or Forza for 11 speed 32 rear wheel or would not offset DT460 or HED Belgium do? Not disc.
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• #5921
You never really need offset rims, it just builds a stronger wheel (if that's what you're asking?)
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• #5922
Well yes and why seems it more relevant with 11 speed? Only ever had 10 speed not offset. Explain please.
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• #5923
Longer freehub body for 11s
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• #5924
Really? i.e. my knowledge goes that far.
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• #5925
Maybe this image helps a bit, offset rim helps to make the hub-rim-spoke triangle more even and allows for more even tension between the drive and the non-drive side of the wheel, which makes a stronger wheel. As @Emyr pointed out a longer freehub body results into a less even tension than a 'normal' shorter freehub body. An offset rim helps to compensate
tldr left triangle is more 'even' and therefore stronger
Doesn't most calculators use 12mm nipples as standard?