Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

What else did you do to it? including even the smallest adjustment.

replacement pads for Shimano BR-RS805? Does uberbike or superstar sell any that will fit?

Go for Shimano's own.

https://www.rosebikes.com/article/shimano-l02a-brake-pads/aid:864325

Those.

Got these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/381994293222?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

http://si.shimano.com/pdfs/ev/EV-BR-RS805-3852A.pdf

I feel like a naughty kid in front of the Headteacher right now..

I had to 'open up' the parts that push the pads inwards to get enough clearance for the disc to go in between the new pads...
I cleaned some rust off the disc with some sandpaper...
I fiddled with the adjustment barrel once I found that the brakes weren't biting so much...
Same for the cable tension.

That's... not the same I think, that's probably for the original road hydraulic.

Sounds like you've not got the lever arm returning all the way, release all the cable tension, dial the pads in then use the barrel adjuster to only remove cable slack, not bring the pads in.

Amey, you gone brought the wrong fucking pads.

He won't make that mistake with the Paul brakes.

Sorry, read hy/Rd as Spyre, probably still a similar thing. Make sure the lever arm moves all the way back so the pads can auto adjust.

He won't make that mistake with the Paul brakes.

I'll be gosh darned impressed if he went and buy a non v-brake pads for it after talking about it in great length in a chat show.

You open up the pads and adjust the cable.

The first, open up pads, if you open it up too much, it actually got a little softer because the piston is further out.

However, the problem is the cable, you should never adjust the cable for the HY/RD, if you tighten it up, it felt good, but it doesn't allow the piston to fully retrace, thus you experiences gradual loss in power.

Remedy: loosen the cables a bit, until the small screw on the caliper fit in, then squeeze several time, this will return the braking performance.

Remedy II: for soft feeling levers; take out wheel, squeeze levers to push piston out a bit, put wheel back on, squeeze a couple time, it should feel a little sharper.

It's one of those simple brakes that can easily go wrong if adjusted ever so slightly.

Also;

I cleaned some rust off the disc with some sandpaper...

You don't do this, you clean it with isopropyl alcohol, using sandpaper on rotor will actually accelerate the pads wear after you made the surface rougher, I can't comment on how it look now, but it's possible you will need to replace it after you gone done put sandpaper on it.

Sandpaper is fine, in fact it's a good idea if you change pad types to sand the rotor a bit so you can bed in the new pads properly.

Use a nice fine grade though.

fucking hell, you can't even buy the right pads for disc brakes?

i can't wait for someone to start a "Paul centre pull brakes are an evolutionary dead end" thread

The PDF (si.shimano on) says Shimano K02S pads no? Thats what I bought ..

Right, what happened here in true eBay fashion, is that when something sold out, they don't show that pages anymore, they show an alternative option, which is this;

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/381994293222?clk_rvr_id=1194748687466&rmvSB=true

Hence me thinking you gone brought the wrong pads.

Also this is cheaper;

https://www.bike24.com/p2142731.html

No need to apologise

Thank you, I didn't.

Stop flirting with me ed

i got uberbike finned ones with replaceable pads. do the job

I've got some mud in the pistons of my Spyres, which is impairing the braking and the smoothness of the braking feel. But mostly it's not coping with my ocd.

Has anyone disassembled them for a thorough clean?

According to this it looks super straightforward, but could use some advice if any.

Then you just finish the ride with 5 bolts instead of 6!