Home DIY

It's normal to trip the RCD if bare wires touch even on an isolated circuit.

I don't see a problem looping the system, I'd probably get everything prepped and to hand then use a freeze kit and splice it in. It won't look nice but I'm guessing that's not the primary concern.

I've got a Salus RT500 thermostat which connects with a RF Boiler Control - only thing is it's stopped working with the boiler but only when the thermostat is on a programme. If I manually adjust it then the boiler kicks in/turns off. Any ideas?

When you manually over ride thermostat (turn up heat) are you getting a flame symbol on the stat? What lights on the receiver?

Yes, plus the light on the boiler goes in and the flashing symbol on the screen to show it's drawing heat.

What happens in this scenario?
Boiler is off, thermostat is set to manual and turned down.

You turn up the thermostat beyond room temp.

Do you get a flame symbol on the thermostat?
Does the boiler fire up?
What lights do you have at the receiver? Solid red and solid green?

Boiler is off but thermostat set to programme (though should be on and when check it is displaying a target temp of say 22 degrees).

red light on the boiler

I've edited my previous post to try and be clearer

It's already been mentioned but the reason you can still trip the RCD is because all the neutrals are connected to the neutral bar associated with that RCD. It shouldn't happen if you get inside the CU ( with the power disconnected of course) and disconnect the circuits from the breaker.

Alright rassclarts.

Sanding floors yourself - is it a mad plan or a canny way to save hundreds of sovs? I don't move into this place for a few weeks so I do have time, I'm just not sure if I'm better off paying someone to do it.

Been there, done that. Cheaper to get someone else to do it, and they'll do a better job.

Appreciate the steer. Any recommendations for people?

It's a really horrible job, better get someone else to do it.

I did about 80 sq ft with a hand random orbital sander.
Never again, though it did turn out well.

The tradespeople thread has a recommendation for North/East from me.

I'm doing some fencing at the moment and would like to top off the fence posts with a slip over post cap - something like:

For the life of me I can't find any online. Wickes do some but they're the wrong size - needs to fit a 100 x 100mm post. Has anyone seen these anywhere?

Can anyone tell me how I disconnect this gas cooker? Do these things usually have a valve that I can switch off like you get on
water pipes?

Cheers.

@BleakRefs I did around 40sq m with rented equipment. It's not exactly a fun job, but it's not as bad as I thought it would be. The results are good - not as good as a pro though. I'm not sure how much I saved and I'm not sure I'd do it again.
I asked the exact same question many many pages back and got mixed responses. Get some quotes and weigh up the saving vs the hassle.

What he said below...

^ignore that comment.

Disconnect the metal carabiner clip so you can pull the cooker away from the wall more.

Disconnect the rubber hose from the wall, the wall fitting is self sealing so no need to turn off any gas.

(Note;this is designed to allow you to temporarily disconnect the cooker to clean. If it's permanently disconnected a gas safe engineer should cap the supply as left for a period of time disconnected those wall plate elbows can dry out and leak)

Disconnect here:

1 Attachment

This explains better
http://www.elgas.com.au/blog/481-gas-bayonet-fittings-connect-disconnect

Christ, is it a good idea to fuck about with gas without any experience or expertise?

The gas regs allow the homeowner to temporarily disconnect a bayonet fitting on a cooker to allow you to clean behind it. Hence why the fitting is self sealing.

Apart from this domestic gas work should always be carried out by a gas safe registered engineer.

A very very small amount of gas will escape on disconnection. This is normal. If the smell of gas persists or if you ever smell gas in your property turn off the supply at the meter and call National Grid on 0800 111 999 immediately.

Many thanks @sacredhart. I did suspect it might be removable, but wasn't sure how. I'll give it a shot. Gutting my kitchen, so it needs to come out.

No prob. Be very careful not to get any dust or debris in the fitting once removed. Wrap it in cling film and put a bag round it.

If it's going to be disconnected for some time get it capped.