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Interesting you say all of that: I inspected the free-wheel body quite closely and noticed the pitting on the splines and ran my nail along them, scratching at grit and those notches as you call them. I think you might have hit the proverbial nail on the head, this was why the cassette didn't originally fit. Going to get it to a mechanic to double check and torque it properly
Jimmy_Fingers
@gfk_velo
One rule - clean everything before you assemble - an accumulation of small bits of grit etc on the surface of the sprockets and the spacers is enough to make it look as if the cassette isn't going to fit. Also - if the lockring hasn't been done up tight enough in the past and especially if a 10s cassette has been fitted, you'll find little "notches" in the splines where the sprockets have fretted against them - they can stop your (11s) sprockets from moving down the splines cleanly and may "stop" them in "not quite" the right places as the 10s spacing is different to the 11s.
The recommended torque is 40nm to compress the spacers correctly to give accurate spacing, to prevent movement and to ensure adequate support for each sprocket from the spacer to reduce the risk of sprocket fracture - so yes, it is "quite tight" but it's also required ... we see lots of problems with cassettes, cassette bodies / freehubs on Campag, Shimano and Campag / Shimano pattern bodies from other makers because of exactly this issue.