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I'm sorry to be 3 days, 2 pages and 1 order too late for this, but given the setup in your picture you still had the following option: take out the spacer from between your NDS bb cup and put it next to the spacer on the drive side. The reason this may have worked is that GXP cranks rely on the NDS end of the crank axle/spindle to lay itself on to the bb cup bearing. Meaning your chain line ( and in this situation, the clearance issue ) will depend on the position of the NDS bb cup relative to your frame.
If placing both spacers on drive side wouldn't have helped, you could also face few mm from the NDS side of the bb shell, but that I guess would be taking it to the extreme...
Let us know how you got on, please!
scorch-
Let us know how you got on
He ordered an MTB crank :)
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Putting both spacers on the DS BB cup was actually step 1. When I torqued everything up, the cranks wouldn't spin. And by not spin I mean, I had to put serious effort to get any movement in the cranks. I spent most of that evening consulting internet wisdom about GXP cranks and the way Sram cranks work and came to the same conclusion about facing the NDS BB shell. Which will not be happening as the frame is a Sickfadez M600.
And yes, I ordered a GX1400 instead. :)
gbj_tester
LeMesjeu
Apex 1 cranks will not clear the chainstays on my M600.
Can swap out the spacers but then the lot will not tighten correctly.
Sram GXP BB installation instructions for 68mm shells vs 73mm shells vs road cranks vs MTB cranks are also a pita.