Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

For instance, making a regular shimano 135mm mtb hub fit in a road frame.

Shimano basically add a 5mm NDS spacer to a road hub to make a non-disc 135mm hub. By taking it back out, you're reverting to the horrible dish on a 130mm road hub, but no worse.

Anyone know of a UK source for Kinlin XR200 rims? I'm still trying to see if I can straighten @Cycliste's rear wheel, but it's not looking good so far. Spoke tensions are looking iffier and iffier the straighter the rim gets.

UK source for Kinlin XR200

DCR in 28H only, @cycleclinic has had them in the past and may be able to help. Sdeals have stock of 24/28/32H
https://www.sdeals.com/index.php/component/hikashop/product/14078-kinlin-xr200-rim

Perfect, that'll do. A new rear rim is definitely required. I've trued the rear wheel to +/- 1mm, but that's as good as it's going to get unless I can find spokes that work in compression...

There's not much metal in an XR200, I expect it will be well out of round when you take it apart. Light, strong, cheap - pick two.

unless I can find spokes that work in compression...

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you're reverting to the horrible dish on a 130mm road hub

Sounds like I'll live either way. But as it's steel, would it be better to respace the frame to 135mm (not bothered by hub weight here obvs)? Do the 5 mm make that much difference in wheel strength?

would it be better to respace the frame to 135mm

Stick with 130mm if you're using road cranks, moving top gear 2.5mm to the right can cause chain clearance issues

I need no convincing on that front! The rim doesn't even have a consistent external width any more, and there's a distinct kink at one point where the rim takes an S-shaped route between two spokes. The XR200s are cheap and light, and I'm not convinced that many lightweight road rims would be happy with having a 6'4" tall rider trundling over them whilst lying on the ground.

Sold my 'spare' carbon wheelset so I had to finish building​ up the front wheel I've had hanging in the basement for two years.

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shows off homemade truing stand

Hmm and maybe valve fail looking at that picture. I really hope not as the wheel is finished otherwise. That'll teach me to not build wheels drunk.

Edit: sober now. It's radial lacing ffs. Phew!

Edit 2: @withered_preacher yeah. Over the next days I'll be sneaking home brewed IPA, straight razors and lumps of sourdough into various pics too

Looking for a rear hub which:

• doesn't need a cassette tool to remove rear cassette, or straight pull spokes (roadside fixing)
  
• Is quiet and not clickty click click
  
• 32h
  
• budget < £125 (max!)
  
  

DT Swiss 240 was top of the list but I think they're meant to be quite noisy, or at least get noisy over time. I want something that will stay quiet.

Any suggestions?

Thanks

Any suggestions?

If you're breaking spokes often enough to worry about road side fixing, maybe you should be considering a higher spoke count. Or stronger spokes. Or better wheel building. Or stiffer rims, so that they remain ridable to a workshop with a spoke out. Or packing a portable cassette lock ring tool.

More TCR contingency planning.

Have thought about portable cassette tool, but would prefer to have a wheel built that meets the above reqs so I don't need it...

So build a wheel that doesn't need spoke replacement. I used 32h @scherrit wheels and didn't take spare spokes or spoke tool. Shimano hubs are quiet. DT Swiss are not.

Clearly I'm more pessimistic than you then...

I buy them when i need to but i dont stock them as demand is low.

Sounds like you simply need better built wheels. All hubs require a lockring tool to get the cassette of so if thag is your criteria then you will have to start riding on large flange single speed hubs.

All hubs require a lockring tool to get the cassette of

I think he meant that he would pull the cassette off complete with the freehub rotor, which you can do on some hubs without any tools.

How many spokes have you broken in your life / age * your investment in TCR =>

Powertap hubs for one.

Fair - I've only broken spokes when I've been fat riding on crap wheels. Neither which will be the case for the tcr.

@mdcc_tester yes - that's what I meant. Any other examples of hubs like that?

Hope (RS Mono/Pro III) hubs pull apart in the same way, but they're probably even more noisy than DT.

It is also can be a little tricky putting it back on making sure the rubber seal doesn't interfere with the hubs, made harder with the cassette on the way.

If not seated properly, then the chain will start skipping due to the slack not being taken up by the freehubs.