Home DIY

Last one; promise!

Now with added bookcase / cat

Happy birthday!

Cheers boss. 31 tomorrow.

#gameover

Anybody got something like this or knows where I can get this or similar for the weekend please?

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http://www.screwfix.com/p/stapler-nailer/10110?kpid=10110&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%20Listing%20Ads-_-Sales%20Tracking-_-sales%20tracking%20url&gclid=COTU-vndy9ICFXIW0wodVLUCvg

https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Power-Hand-Tools/Heavy-Duty-Hand-Staple-Gun-Stapler-Upholstery/B0074FNKGK

Yes is local thank you.

I thought you're question was a quote and the picture a sarcastic answer.

Bit disappointed when I realised it was just a straight request.

Laying carpet on stairs.

Went ahead and removed the skim plaster to reveal some more stable plaster beneath. Going to take down the tiles to the left and build out from the existing studs and make the window return level with the wall (only about a foot to a join with a 45° stud wall).

My question is around the wooden lintel above the window. I'm assuming cutting this out would be a very bad idea, so the question is sand and paint or tile the underside to the window?

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Looking good mate! And many happy returns

Cheers!

Kitchen under-cabinet lighting question:

Should I run the 12V supply from the mains ring, or run it from the lighting ring? Using the lighting ring could be a bit of a pain in the arse as I don't want to lift the floorboards upstairs to access the ceiling rose......

Mine runs off the lighting ring and operates from the kitchen light switch, not an easy luxury for your existing build. Are you fitting LEDs, if so which ones please?
I've just fitted our wall cabs and would like to fit the lights before the cornicing goes on...

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Just look like internal window frame to me.

Was looking at these:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-microflex-led-led-tape-striplights-5m-warm-white-7-5w/78583

So, have you left wiring from your ceiling exposed so that you can feed them from there?

It's definitely wooden, don't know if it's a lintel.

I guess the way to tell would be chip away a bit of the plaster above and see if there's anything else holding the bricks up right?

The previous window was wooden, so it's possible it's a just a remnant of that, unfortunately I wasn't around when it was installed, so didn't get to see.

Could just be a 'trim' to attach curtain rods to, doesn't look thick enough to be load bearing.

I totally agree with the 2nd half of your statement, but it does project into the wall, and I'm not sure I'm willing to trust whatever flaky crap this is above it, seeing as the rest of the walls in this place appear to be made from flour and dust.

I guess I could get someone in to consult and tell me whether it's ok to move, but as I'm probably moving out next year I think I'd rather just hide it under some tiles in all honesty!

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Correct, I ran a dedicated wire from the light switch to behind the cabinets, you can just see it popping out at the top of my pic. All my wiring terminates in the switch back boxes though, no roses or junction boxes. I don't see a problem taking a power feed from the nearest source (lights or sockets) if you're having the switch in a convienent location. If they were lamps/halogens that kept popping and tripping the ring it would get annoying as would be having to isolate the ring everytime you were planning on tinkering but LeDs last so long these days I think you'll be fine.
I had a look at that type in a shop but didn't think they threw much lumins, I want them to be quite bright because of my old man eyes!

If you are wiring the lights in 2.5 t&e then it shouldn't matter. It can cause a problem if someone comes along and isolates the lighting circuit to work on the switch and doesn't check that all the wiring is isolated. Of course if you isolate the lighting circuit and the lights don't go out you know it's on a different circuit.

I'm guessing you only have switch wires in the light switch back box otherwise you could take a live feed from the switch and feed it into your new circuit.

It just doesn't end. Replacing a fused spur switch for the immersion heater with a timer. Everything fine, then discover it doesn't fit on the back box :(

It's a surface mount box, so I can just change it for one that doesn't have mounting holes in inconvenient places. There's an extension collar with the switch which I might have to use anyway, but it's not deep enough for the switch electronics to clear the internals of the box.

Of course, Murphy will probably dictate that the holes in the back of the new box won't match the wallplugs already in the wall

Has anyone on here built there own shed?

I did, about a quarter century ago.