Home DIY

Great. I don't think it it telescopic but getting a telescopic one sounds like the best bet.

In answer to my own question about North London window suppliers/fitters I can now recommend Wembley Windows. Gave the cheapest quote by far, and perfect service.

I'll remove and measure tonight.

Am i going to need to seal the joints with anything?

Thanks.

I've got to remove and drain to change it so i might as well remove, drain, measure, pop to Screwfix for the new part then fit again. At least i know i'll have the right length.

On the threads you use PTFE tape read up as you need to wind it around the correct way.

I did not know this. Thanks.

Use more ptfe than you think, I go fully around 12-15 times. Another tip I gleaned from a plumber was to use a watertight rubble sack around the valve to catch the water when you drain it, saves a lot of mess.

1 Attachment

No-one here using the much thicker ptfe tape that only needs 2 or 3 layers?

So, @diable @inchpincher etc, I've drained the rad and removed the valve and I'm left with the pipe below (see crack on side).

There's no way to remove it as it's just a round pipe.

Thoughts?

1 Attachment

One of these ? Pipe extender?

If it's like a normal rad union there's a large hex fitting inside the pipe that takes an abnormally large Allen key.

Nailed it. Took a TX60 torx piece to get it out.

The extension is 50mm to the thread and 60mm including the thread.

That makes it a 50mm extension, right?

Toolstation near me have them in stock :)

The missing chrome makes it look like it was fitted with plumbers grips which might explain the split. If it's a closed heating system keep an eye on the boiler pressure when you refill and as diable said, wang 500ml of inhibitor in first.

And seeing as it's off now, get a nicer radiator, in the right size.

Why? The room doesn't need anything bigger, it's plenty warm enough and so far, fixing the leak has cost me £8 for tape, a replacement extension and some inhibitor.

Your 'solution' is at least £100 more.

Thanks but no thanks.

Because pretty.

Right... Valve extension is installed and dry as a bone.

Inhibitor:

Before I top up the boiler, can I just turn off the valves on my towel radiator, remove the nut at the top and pour this in?

1 Attachment

Has anyone here made a poured concrete worktop or similar? Am thinking of trying my hand at a bath surround, with mould made from melamine. Interested in concrete mixtures for strength and durability, possibly using grp strands. Plenty on internet, just keen to hear from those with experience. Thanks.

I was going to do it before realising that the size of worktop was beyond my confidence level and time scales, as I would have wanted an imperfection-free finish. I bought this book which although dated is very comprehensive

Done now.

Didn't drain the whole system... Just drained a little over a litre from the towel rad and topped up with the inhibitor.

Storm Doris managed to take part of the felt from my shed roof off.

In total I think about 2-3 strips are damaged. Can I just replace / repair these or does it all need to be done?

Also any top tips and dos/donts?

Cheers

Replace whatever you need, but bear in mind how it needs to overlap. You might have problems matching the colour/shade of the felt if you're putting in new stuff. It's pretty easy, you'll probably want a bucket of clout nails as spares too.

Thanks! Would take the book off your hands if you wanted to move it on?

Cheers. That's really helpful.

The roof is already a bit miss and match, so I'm not too fussed. There are battons on the top holding the felt on, so I was planning on lifting those up.

As a side note I'm quite impressed that even with holes the wood has held all water out.

I'm gonna hang on to it - it's still a vague dream/plan to give it a go at some point