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Sounds like a right angled drill might be an ok way of doing the rear then...
It is currently spaced to 130mm - I have vague distant plans of maybe getting all the mounts and stuff chopped off and it respaced to 120mm and maybe also painted.
So if I did make a catastrophic mess, it would be all the more reason to get that done.I do have access to a drill press, so might use that to carefully do the front - I work in a bike shop and have done this before on customers bikes - my question was more about the sensibilities of doing it on a tandem fork crown.
Open tool box - Thanks for all the knowledge!
Miitch-
Sounds like a right angled drill might be an ok way of doing the rear then...
Not really.
It's easy enough to drill forks off-centre/at an angle when you have unhindered access, never mind doing it with a right-angled drill within the confines of the rear triangle.
Even if you cut a bit down, I think you'd find the drill would be fouled by the seat tube.
What does the bridge look like? Drill the back and mount the brake inside the triangle, ie backwards?
Scilly.Suffolk
There is a thread (perhaps in "open toolbox") where people passed the appropriate puller around, failing which I think SJS stock them.
I can't see the bridge clearly but even if there is enough reinforcement to allow the hole to be drilled, the chance of you accurately enlarging the hole with a flexible drive is vanishingly small.
Scroll down to "Mounting recessed-mounting calipers on older frames" on this page, if you don't fancy getting a new bridge installed.
Yes, but without a drill press it's inadvisable for the same reasons as the rear.