Tubeless Tyres -"saying the same things about tubeless tyres over and over again" Hippy read the first f**king post

so, choice between obtaining one of those high flow devices, or just sticking a goddam tube in it and leaving my tubeless conversion for another day / month /year.

co2 cartridges are another - somewhat wasteful - option.

I usually find I can tell how easily a tyre is going to mount by how tough it is to get it on the rim. If it was a stress to get it on, usually it will go up first time, unless something is very wrong, like the valve stem sitting just outside the tyre bead.

My floor pump of fifteen years died recently, and @Doctor_Cake got me one of the Bontranger charger pumps. It's great :)

I did what @mdcc_tester suggested and put a tube into the other wheel, inflated, removed tube.

all good except the tyre de-mounted when i was getting the inner tube out again. however, i thought i'd carry on, fitted the valve stem, re-seated the tyre and it went straight up. no gunk inside.

many thanks for the tip!

now just have to deal with the gunky one...

Also, try a bit of soapy water around the bead to let it move out towards the hook bit.

And don't forget to remove your valve cores to get it seated. Can put them back in after obvs.

try a bit of soapy water

If you don't have the right product to hand :)

35 or 40mm rim width for 27.5+ wheelset?
Will probably be running 2.8" tyres but would be nice to be able to go a bit slimmer or wider if needs be. Some forums/articles suggest 40+ leaves a squared tyre more prone to sidewall damage.
Will be for my mtb/monstour bike so would be nice if they felt relatively normal as opposed to fatty tractor wheels.

I'd say 35. 40+ is bordering on the fat realm. I have 2.8's sitting on 30's and it's a good shape, 35 would probably be even nicer, but anything wider will probably splay the carcass out too much.

Thanks for that. 35/2.8 matches the guide on Stans website that I just found too.
Sooo, 35mm rim choices? Scrapers, duallys or ?

Anyone tried the Marathon Supreme TLE?

@Doctor_Cake 's tubed marathon supremes are coming to the end of their life and her rims will work tubeless, so...

Are you talking internal or external width? These are very good and currently a bargain, but 35mm external/30mm internal.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/easton-arc-mtb-rim/rp-prod136865

Next size up is a 40mm internal.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/easton-arc-plus-mtb-rim/rp-prod152721

From what I've read I think I'm looking for 35mm internal(still very much learning).
Wtb asym i35 is another option.
Stans recommend the Sentry which is 32mm internal for 2.5-3"

I think I'm looking for 35mm internal

That does sound about right for 2.8". I find the 30mm internal great for around 2.3"-/2.5".

That's what i'm attempting to put onto my commuter.

Will report back once I've got some miles on them. They look and feel ok for a robust kind of tyre.

Ta!

Thought I'd add my own experience so far. Have just mounted a Schwalbe G-one 35mm on a 17mm internal Alex disc rim. Used two layers of Tesa 19mm tape (which I read somewhere is the same as Stans) which fit snugly right up to both rim walls. Tyre went on with a bit of encouragement from tyre levers. I was a bit concerned about the tyre seating around the valve due to a lack of space, but it easily got to 60psi first time with a track pump and looks to be staying there. Didn't hear a reassuring 'pop' as it seated but it looks like it has and it's holding its air. Can I put sealant in now and ride it tomorrow morning, or should I wait till the morning to seal - and can I then ride it straight away? Ta!

Either will work fine.

Can I put sealant in now and ride it tomorrow morning, or should I wait till the morning to seal - and can I then ride it straight away?

Chuck some in now, that way if something goes wrong you have a bit of time to fix it :)

Thanks. So air out of the tyre, remove valve core, 60ml of stan's goo in, valve core in then reinflate and spin? Or spin first? How long should I spin for? Does it even matter??

So air out of the tyre, remove valve core, 60ml of stan's goo in, valve core in then reinflate and spin?

Yep. Or just go and ride it. I find riding is better than spinning for spreading that shiz around but YMMV.

You might find that the tyre shrinks back into the centre channel when you let the air out. I've had schwalbe tyres do that. Doesn't seem to matter though, with the goo in they'll still go straight back up.

Goo, inflate, spin. Tough my last pair of tires only sealed after riding

Ghetto tubeless report: All seems to be working spectacularly well, to my amazement - though the proof, of course, is how well they will deal with the damp, gritty roads and bridleways of south Cambridgeshire over time. Have only converted the rear wheel so far but the bike felt less sluggish this morning without a knobby CX tyre on the back. Completely anecdotal/emperor's new clothes/placebo of course, as I never time my rides. 60psi feels a little stiff; will drop it down tonight and hopefully have time to do the front wheel, too.

I fully commend the @mdcc_tester method of inflating the tyres with an inner tube first.

Both my wheels / tyres are sorted now using this approach and a normal track pump.

it's odd cos both tyres de-mounted when I was getting the tube out and the valve stem in, but then they inflated easily, whereas before the inflation with inner tube, it was a hopeless cause.

i guess the inflation process sufficiently shapes the tyre so it holds some air next time round.

anyway - many thanks

I'm a hairs thickness from giving up on tubeless on my Genesis. It just doesn't work.
Wtb i25's with tubeless, originally gorilla tape and schwalbe valves now stans tape and vales. I think in 2 months or so I've had a single week of them actually holding pressure. They were fine last week and now the front goes from 60 psi to 5 in 2-3 mins. No leaks from the tyres but a non determinate hiss from the rims. Rear seems fine and oddly I have the same rims with gorilla tape and schwalbe vales on my 29er with zero problems.

Any last suggestion before I get some latex tubes? I've tried bouncing, changing the vales and tape, more sealant. Over pressure, they're ridden every day, no obvious holes or slits in the tyre. They're sealed very well onto the rim it's self, was a nightmare to pull them off to change the tape.

Maybe I'll try sbc and see what they say. But I'll have to stop to top up the tyres half way...

I'd pump it up to 60psi then stick part of the wheel in the bath and slowly rotate said wheel - establish exactly where the air is coming from, then fix that.

I'd get new tyres.