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• #2
Hammer in a torx bit so that the little teeth bite into the screw and grip?
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• #3
Worth a try but not much metal left to bite into.
Should have said that I have stud extractors in 5mm and 7mm - but it needs a 6mm! -
• #4
Cant you get mole grips on it? It looks like you can get mole grips on it.
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• #5
Bond or spot weld the allen key in
A small reversed drill bit straight through the centre might actually spin it out?
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• #6
I removed a rounded off, torx /star headed bolt from a disc brake with one of these once
I used it the wrong way round, according to the instructions, but it worked. I had locktight on that too.
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• #7
No - it's recessed.
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• #8
Use a tiny file/dremel to make slots on opposite sides, then turn it out with a flat-headed screwdriver of just the right size?
Also, what's the solvent for loctite?
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• #9
Normal threadlock isn't a fan of heat IIRC.
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• #10
Acetone, usually. But it will take a bit of soaking.
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• #11
After soaking for a day with plusgas I tried to remove the grub screw with a torx bit hammered into place. it was very firmly in and took a fair bit of torque before it gave up and rounded the hole. also, now the 'hex' hole is a bit larger i tried my 7mm extractor but it's still too big.
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• #12
I would drill this sucker out and tap a bigger hole, bigger grub screw, leave it at that.
if you use a stainless grub screw I don't think you'll get the seizing problems in the future.
if you're dead set on getting that one out though, try welding something in the hole that will give you more leverage, like a bolt or something you can attach a bar to
Got this in today for attention.
French alloy frame from the 80's with a grubscrew holding the seatpin in place. The seatpin wobbles but wont come out so I need to remove it and check it all out. Someone has run the allen key recess ragged and the thread shows signs of loctite. Can I get this out without resorting to drilling and re-tapping?
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