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• #14352
I wonder why he didn't go for disc rims?
http://www.cxmagazine.com/winning-gravel-grinder-oregon-outback-winner-ira-ryans-breadwinner
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• #14353
That was a few years ago. Think it was before road disc specific rims were widely available maybe? I realise that there were other types of disc rims at the time...
Maybe it was as simple as he already had the rims.
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• #14355
They also go well with the chainset.
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• #14356
Rhyno do https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/rims-tape/sun-rhyno-700c-622-alloy-rim-black-32-hole/
Looks like the Lite as well: https://sun-ringle.com/road/rims/rhyno-lite/
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• #14357
Solid, good looking rim - approaching 600 grams though.
Still wouldn't trade mine. -
• #14358
I once ran 40c tyres on mavic cosmos rims for a year and they are the same spec as open pros. Still here, didnt die.
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• #14359
Can't be true.
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• #14360
I put 35c on ma40s - left them on there for 2 years - was fine for 2 years
I rode the bike once in those 2 years and it was awful.
Fine though.
Still here.
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• #14361
Very much true...
On a cx bike too which I rode daily.
Though I now have wider internal rims with 32c tyres and it's much better.
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• #14362
I need help! I'm looking for an extra long fork daruma bolt to nicely fit my fenders to my P2 forks. The one that came with my guards is just too short and I have a MX style muddie... Anyone have any idea where I can get one? Couldn't see it on SJS...
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• #14364
That COULD work maybe?? They're GB fenders with a vertical hole for attachment rather than a riveted on L bracket though..
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• #14365
1" steerer? I got a piece of 22mm acrylic rod from ebay to make a custom version, as the offset on my fork means the fender meets the underside of the the crown off perpendicular. I was planning on machining it myself but had to get a machine shop to turn it down as 22mm was too big. 20mm and some bearing fit might have done it. Got them to drill a threaded hole in the bottom and one to line up with the crown hole and then sawed/filed it to fit.
Either that or use an L bracket on that hole. Probably puts more stress on the fender though.
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• #14366
Thats genius but suuuuuch a drag... There must be a simpler way.
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• #14367
Don´t use a L bracket on GBs. They´re very fragile if not installed properly.
Did the same as @Silly_Savage on my Troll forks. It´s a bit of a pain, but couldn´t find any other way.
3 Attachments
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• #14368
Love how we've all experienced this. @sackitalloff I made a thing - a tube with a 1" fangled star nut inside. The spacers allow me micro adjust the height above the tyre which is what I struggled with before. The long bolt with nut goes through fork crown, washers above the guard with a flat head bolt securing underneath.
2 Attachments
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• #14370
It's easier to install a star fangled nut at the bottom of the steerer. Did this on a Straggler fork with a cork as a spacer, worked well.
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• #14371
I know it'll never budge, but the tube method feels more secure. Nothing's holding a star fangled nut up... apart from masses and masses of friction. It's perfectly secure but doesn't feel so somehow.
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• #14372
Hello folks,
Let us take a little time for reflection.....
Isn't the interweb wonderful... I bought this the other day, it arrived today and I've just fitted it during my tea break... Used a spirit level to get the right position - oh yes...
For the spotters it is a Velo Orange Grand Cru reflector.
Give thanks again for the info light blue josh, I love it !
Tim
1 Attachment
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• #14373
Guys I've found it... Behold, the key to extended fork daruma success! Its a connector nut or put simply, a long nut... Available in a variety of M's you could screw it to the end of your daruma and then screw another bolt in from the underside of your mudguard with a rubber washer or two in between. I hope I'm not missing something here because I really think i've cracked it...
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• #14374
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• #14375
Love those polished XT cranks.
Yup.