Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

I know nothing about disc brakes.
I have a Campag mechanical groupset. Is it possible to run this with some sort of disc brake setup or would I need new brifters ?

Cheers

AFAIK, yes, you should be able to use your mechanical ergolevers (or wtf campag call their brifters) with any road cable disc brake caliper (I'd recommend trp spyres as long as oyu're not running a high flange/dynamo front hub).
From a lil bit of googling it seems that campag 10sp may pull a lil less cable than other levers, but 11sp apparently the same, I imagine the 10sp ones would still be fine but can't say for sure.
Expect more lever throw than with rim brakes and definitely use compressionless cable housing.

@xkittyx thanks for the info!

This has probably been asked before, but- I have 3 different wheelsets, 2 centre-lock, 1 6-bolt. The centre lock wheelsets have the rotor slightly more inboard (like 1mm-but enough to constantly rub the pad) than the 6-bolt. Is there a shim I can use- or am i gonna have to move the rotors each and every swap?

Edit; misunderstood what shim you need.

I have done the groove-cutting on Hy/Rds and it works just fine. 30 second job with a Dremel.

anyone want RT99 CL 140mm rotor for £20? Used but loads of life left.

@mr_tom what is this groove cutting? Is it explained on here or elsewhere?

Cheers.

Zinn explains why: http://www.velonews.com/2014/06/bikes-and-tech/technical-faq/technical-faq-road-disc-brakes-campagnolo-high-speed-shimmy_332277

Here's what to do: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8aBa3sGUUhs

Excellent thanks. I should have searched Zinn he usually has excellent answers for most issues.

The Inbred is back on the road and Thetford killed the brakes. They're almost bottoming out on the bars now and don't seem to adjust for it any more.

If I wanted to replace the Maguras with a nice Shimano setup what do I need to take note of?

I have presumably normal 6-bolt hubs and want brake levers only - it's a singlespeed. Ah, I'm gonna have to bleed the fuckers aren't I? And do that olive bullshit. Fuck it. I'm just putting new pads in.

I don't suppose there is any similar modification that can be made to a Shimano BR-CX77 brake (cf the TRP mod above) to increase the movement of the brake calliper? I can't see how but thought I'd ask.

Just buy a complete shimano set up. The hoses will be too long but zip ties can hold them out of the way until you get a trained monkey 🐒 to properly install them for you.

#scoble<hippy

Can anyone help with my question above please?

New wheel in, undo calliper bolts, apply brake, tighten bolts

What brand is the centerlock hub? If it is shimano with a 10mm axle, some locknuts are thinner than others. Change left locknut to one 1mm thinner and add 1mm spacer on right side (and optional re-dish wheel slightly)

or fiddle around with different spacers (part 6 and 3):

You can just buy one for less than €25 on bike24.

You were unlucky enough to ask that question just after the previous couple of pages had been used to answer it :)

in order of preference if not practicality...

• get rid of the six bolt wheelset and use the same hubs on everything
  
• respace the CL hubs, if you can, as above
  
• use six bolt on your CL hubs via an adapter, and then shim them in to the same plane
  
• fiddle with the brakes each time you move between 6 bolt and CL
  
• shim the centrelock rotor outboard with something - might damage rotor, hub, face.
  

@howard @ eyebrows It's been a while since I messed with my CL rotors as the wheels aren't being used but I wonder if a HT2 bottom brakcet spacer might fit behind the CL rotor and move it outwards?

When I tried it I bought an italian bb spacer (because it can go over the centerlock groves)

this link:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MTB-Tools-Bicycle-Bottom-Bracket-Spacers-36mm-ID-for-Italian-Thread-Components-/251164008414?hash=item3a7a8a9fde:m:mh1Z8pUpD6Oo3WfnPXFPwEQ

I cannot remember if I found a lockring with longer threading (to take up the slack) or just used the standard shimano one. I can find out.

edit: Because the spacer goes over the grooves to the flat bit behind, it ends up not sitting on anything and needs to be adjusted/held in place just before tightening the lockring. So not really a confidence inspiring setup

The answer is use the same hubs and rotors. Centrelock shims are a bad idea and resetting the brake calipers is effert (although less so if you have hydraulic).
This is also lfgss so the actual correct answer is buy more bikes for your multiple wheelsets

@svendhöek ah pity as it could have soooo easy if it had worked!!! Your idea about shuffling all over by adjust the spacers/washers sounds like the best plan.

I'm a tightwad, I always like tweaks instead of new kit!!!

I honestly think adjusting spyres is easier than hydros for different thickness rotors, it's just a couple of 3mm Allen key adjustments. If you pay attention to how much you need to turn each one you can probably do it with your eyes closed after a few swaps.

I honestly think adjusting spyres is easier than hydros for different thickness rotors

I think you are right. If only the adjusters worked...

I have four calipers, post recall, none of the adjusters work half as well as BB7/5.

Mine need the odd tweak too, but if you're doing that anyway it's hardly any extra bother to adjust to a different rotor.