-
Routing around in my parts bin I discovered a set of di2 tt shifters which gave me an idea of making this into a 1x di2 bike, and while I'm at it I figure I might as well do the top tube drilling mod to hide the cables from the wind.
So this week I've been watching bits and pieces on eBay trying to pick up what I need and making a plan for my first di2 build.
I've managed to pick up an internal battery, and rear derailleur on eBay which both work fine, and have bought wires, and junction boxes from wiggle as I had a few vouchers knocking about.
Today's activity was switching the brakes round and sawing off the weird bits off the bullhorns and installing a low stack headset cover from @mdcc_tester.
1 Attachment
-
-
If I can find the time tomorrow I'll take off the chainset ready to switch with a shimano one for now, and then get the drill out!
things to buy in the future is a single front ring and a tririg omega front brake but these will have to wait till next month!
-
• #4
Routing around in my parts bin I discovered a set of di2 tt shifters
Some people's parts bins are obviously more equal than others.
-
It's the only thing in my parts bin of any value at all!
I also have an external battery mount but no one seems interested!
-
I love it the words "cervelo" and "budget" in the same sentence
-
Well the bike will cost me less than £1k including di2, admittedly I had the wheels already and while I never specified it would be low budget, that seems like a hell of a lot of bike for the money...
-
• #8
I love it the words "cervelo" and "budget" in the same sentence
Have you shopped for a TT bike lately? The new P2/105 is right in the ball park on price with competition like the Shiv Elite, Speed Concept 7.0, IA16 and Trinity Advanced, and well below the Plasma 20. They're not just for dentists any more :)
-
No drilling today, stripping of mechanical groupset and installing first bits of di2, have discovered the BB shell is solid so need to work out how to get the battery wire out as a minimum, and will have to run the wire to the rear mech externally as well which is a bit of a dissapointment.
2 Attachments
-
-
Still room for a few more, looks like I'll be doing two di2 installs, and one of the bikes isn't mine!
-
No progress on this so far this week as I was in Wales for the first half of the week waiting for a few bits, plus my wife decided her bike needed di2 as well and having one bike has taken a bit of a mad dash this week, but should be complete tonight, and given that I'm doing a half marathon on Sunday I've got tomorrow to dedicate to my bike.
I've blown the budget and bought a Tririg omega X brake as well, as I'd buy one anyway and one became available.
Plan for tomorrow is to drill into the top tube, install the junction box, wires and then take a look at how I'm going to route the wire to the battery out to the b junction.
I think I can hide the junction box internally, then route a wire out of the hole in the seat tube designed for the front derailleur cable (so may need to be enlarged) then it'll be a case of installing the Bb and chainset, chain and rear derailleur and taking the bike for a spin!
-
This is a dilemma, I think it's probably not going to be possible to hide the junction box, but if I could I could nick the junction box from my wife's bike and plug it into the reader derailleur...
-
Progress Saturday, as the wife is out today in brought the workstand into the kitchen, which made things happen a lot faster as dexterity is useful!
I spent some time thinking about how to minimise drilling yesterday and worked out if I put he battery in he toontube I only need to drill one hole, and if I ever want to add a front derailleur then it'll just be a case of enlarging the guide in the frame a bit.
Removed the bars, fork, then decided it was drill time, unmarked my spot, put two layers of insulating tape then drilled a 2.5mm hole and then enlarged it to 5.5mm one, on reflection I might have been able to get away with a 5mm one, but I didn't want to have to drill the frame too many times!
Then threaded the long wire down the down tube and out of the pre existing port, then dropped a short wire through my new hole and connected the two using the internal junction b box, I then test fitted the battery which went in pretty easily.
I then realised hebrear brake cable might foul on something in the top tube so had to put a sheath down there, then wrapped the battery in some bubble wrap and pushed it down the top tube, it might rattle a little on really bumpy roads but it's well protected and I didn't want to make it impossible to retrieve.
Connected battery to the b junction, and pulled the wires into the frame, fitted the fork, bars and stem, then brakes, chainset and chain, a bit of fiddling with limit screws and a quick tune and all is working well!
4 Attachments
-
-
Thanks to @mdcc_tester, an adjustable stem and a hacksaw, this bike is now quite low at the front end, not quite now enough to lick the tire, but fairly close, and I think its 3cm compliant too, although I might need to double check that...
I will take some pictures outside when its next sunny..
Then I just need to take it to do some testing, and then buy a stem that doesn't weigh the earth!
1 Attachment
-
-
Ewww, Omega X looks shit on an old P2, no wonder Nutshell wanted a cable hanger. Try to find an original Omega with the chamfered cable stop which was actually designed around the nose come of a classic Cervelo.
-
Agree, this brake actually works though, so not keen to change based on what I've heard about the stopping power of the original!
Was thinking about modifying it with a file to get it a bit closer, surely the cable stop is over engineered right?
-
Some chat on the subject here (apologies for the TTF link, but at least with the new platform you can stick Nob on ignore).
Filing was suggested, but it was pointed out that the X has a thinner backplate.
What size is your P2? A friend is getting a P3, so I'm about to tackle this and hoping a 54cm will be less of a problem.
-
Mines a 51cm, will take a read of the later or maybe I should just file the frame...?
-
My elbows are basically in line with the steerer, so I should be fine, I doubt Annie pack chopper is going to come under much scrutiny, but is at least like to say I'd tried to stay within the rules...
-
and then buy a stem that doesn't weigh the earth
Possibly not fully compliant with the description "budget tt build" :)
EDIT: BBB HiRise has to be pretty close to what you've got set on the adjustable
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/bbb-bhs-25-highrise-oversize-stem/
1 Attachment
-
gbj_tester
Light_EDDed
Ste_S
%~}
pjhobs
croft
pifko
Scilly.Suffolk
-
Post a reply
About
Cervelo TT Bike p2 > p series
Posted by
@Sainsburys_Ed
A couple of years ago I built a tt super bike, a Felt IA, which I've absolutely loved since I've owned it, apart from oooking awesome it's been the bike I've seen some massive improvements in both tt and triathlon, but as my position has adapted it is no longer really suitable as it's too high at the front end and a bit short. So for a few months I've been watching listings on eBay for an older p2 or p3 when the geometry was longer in the top tube and lower at the front end.
A couple of weeks ago I spotted a p2 from 2010 listed looking a bit sad, with Tri stickers on it and the bars rotated round, I realise that a lot of people can see through a bad picture but it raised doubts in my mind, nevertheless it had a set of speedplay pedals and actually looked in good nick so I chucked in a bid and promptly forget about it. See fist picture below of bike on carpet
Last Thursday I got an email from eBay saying I'd won the bike, sondrove down to Swindon to pick it up, brought it home and took a good look, its got one small chip out the paint, and a bit of sweat corrosion to the bolts on the bars but in very good nick, the lady who owned it previously had been a good triathlete but had stopped racing 3 years ago and put the bike in the attic.
So I put a saddle on and some pedals, slammed the stem and chucked my race wheels on.
2 Attachments