Functional bikes. Not Porn not Anti

question is, can you live with a black rear hub? :P

Or if you want to do it cheap:

cnc-bike.de/product_info.php­?products_id=12666

That's white :)

ah crap ok, removed

You literally reposted their whole range. Commendable insanity.

I've been using Blunt SS, very happy with them, easy to tubeless.

What tyre size have you been using? In my experience putting a tyre only a few mm wider than the rim width is horrible in setting up.. So I wouldn't think a 35mm will work on a Blunt.

Depends on tyre. Been thinking a lot about this recently with the popularity of + tyres. I wouldn't fit a tyre to a rim that was more than 45-55% of the tyre's width. Particularly for long distance.

what do you mean by rim width? outer, inner or bead seat?

If you meant inner, I agree but would maybe stretch it to 60% - 65%

This reminds me that I used to have a brakeless fixed gear with 23mm-designed rims and 38c tyres. Had the bits laying in the garage and couldn't resist. We used to call it "death trap" and nobody really dared ride it anywhere. You could feel the tyres easing off the rims as you cornered.

inner width, like 18mm inner, so a tyres 50% of that size would be a 36mm one (thus 32-38mm).

Personally, I agree with your measurment (60-65%), I did ride on 42mm with 17mm internal and work out surprisingly well because the tyres is already a good balloon shape.

23mm? that actually should be fine, unless the internal is actually 13-15mm.

I was talking about it the other way, if you have a 18mm inner rim width I wouldn't mount any tyre smaller than 28/30mm (or else you're gonna run into trouble mounting them after a flat). Bigger is just fine!

Ah, well a lots of road wheels are actually 17mm internal and have been mounted with 23mm tyres.

18mm internal you defintely can get away with 25mm, While you can with 23mm but the risk is that the rims actually can get damaged when hit by a pothole instead of the tyres (and mounting them as you mentioned).

I'm running 40c tyres on open pros at 70psi. it's fine

Yeah it's probably best to clarify that you can actually put 40mm on it and still be able to ride it, the only difference is the trade off of having to increased the pressure considerably to stop it from squirming too much.

agreed

Designed for 23mm tyres.

Would you have time next week to follow me around and correct me in realtime? I'm worried that some of my errors might be slipping past you.

Designed for 23mm tyres.

Thought you meant 23mm as in the external width of the rims!

;)

Andy u so helpful :-)

I have lost track!

35c on blunt SL (25 external) had a nice profile. 35c on a blunt 35 (35 external) worked but looked weird, much better running 2.4" on those rims...

Mainly running 47c/2" on the SSs profile seems pretty good.

Find them in stock and if it's nearby I'll pick them up. Do I get to choose the colour?

Sadly the "factory" is a little far north for this trip :(

I'm looking at the Gilles Berthoud mudguards I've just bought. There's a bolt which goes through the fork where a caliper brake would attach, then a fixing that hangs off that to bolt to the guard. The washer on that guard is for a 1" steerer so would just disappear inside my fork. Any reason that a stem cap wouldn't work here? Like this...

1 Attachment

Also, there are boots for the stays on the rear mudguard, but no bolt to attach the fixing near the bottom bracket. That's not a huge problem - I've got one to fit. But there's also no bracket to fit to the rear brake stay, or bolts for that. What do people normally use? I could get a flat piece of aluminium, bend it and drill it, rivet it to the guard and bolt that to the bridge. But that sounds like hard work - surely that's not what they expect people to do?

Usually you'd drill the mudguard and bolt it to the braze on underneath your seat stay bridge on your old stylee touring bike with centrepulls/cantis, but otherwise they expect you to buy the separate brake bolt mounting L bracket. A standard SKS one should work with some bending and jiggery-pokery