Dolan Pre Cursa / PreCursa / Track Champion

They certainly are drillable. Best done clamped firmly under a pillar drill, by someone who knows what they're doing (i.e. not your LBS).
There's a steel screw glued inside the (aluminium) crown of the fork, that fills the brake hole. It has been covered with filler by the factory, before painting.

I'm in York but commute to Leeds on a Wednesday. I'd be after around £75 I think. No idea really though. They're cut for a 54cm frame, but have a fair amount of steerer left. Never been near a road though.

So is it just a case of drilling a bit then removing the screw?

That's the gist (before then continuing, to drill the front side of the fork) but also an oversimplified explanation.
The screw is surrounded by adhesive, and if there was a head to use for purchase with a tool, you'd damage it when drilling anyway (I should probably have called it a 'bolt' or 'piece of threaded bar' instead of screw).
Look inside the steerer from the crown and you'll see the screw running through the filled brake hole (probably covered in excess structural adhesive and a bit of paint).
Once the rear half is drilled, ideally, you should remove the remainder of the steel screw before attempting to drill the front (because the harder steel will cause the drill bit to wander off its course into the softer alu crown, and probably result in the finished hole being in a dangerous position at the front.
I've drilled two of these forks, and both times I started at the rear, then tried to work the screw loose, using pliers, gripped from under the crown.
On the first occasion, the above method was successful, and I was able to drill most of the way through (from the back), before finishing the hole from the front so not to chip the paint. The second time, the screw wouldn't budge after drilling out from the rear, so I then chose to drill from the front, from a marked centrepoint on the little raised flat bit where you expect the brake hole to be. However, the front and rear holes didn't line up 100%, because the drill had wandered slightly off course due to the steel screw as described above. This meant that I needed to ovalise both the holes slightly, with a round file, in order for the brake caliper to fit correctly. Was a bit of a faff but got there in the end (phrase sums up this comment).

Bottom line: if you're at all unsure or aren't confident using the tools, don't bother. Dolan would also concur it's not a good idea to follow DIY advice from some guy on an internet forum when modifying their product.

I'm also in York. The steerer is probably too short for me. I ride a 60cm frame with abit of stack.

This tool may be of use if it's a threaded insert bonded into the brake hole.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/screw-extractor-5-piece-set/18643

@umop3pisdn were those new Miche cranks your own? LBS should be ordering very soon, but none of us know if they come with a BB... Do you know if they come without, or with a threaded one included?

I have those cranks and fwiw I had to order a threaded BB separately.

They are - though I don't have my hands on them jsut yet as my man sent me the empty box that his set came in rather than my box... no BB though.

Work fine with HTII

Thanks for the info and yuss! Was hoping they'd be correct axle for HTII rather than GXP.
Box saga sounds bit comical! @Goyt, thanks also!

Checked last night - 220mm. Guessing that's too short?

how mine currently looks

shout out to Southsea Seafront/ Portsmouth for the background

Perfection

@powleo Looks great, what length stem are you using?

I thought it was 110mm but from here it looks longer. I'll re-measure when I'm reunited with it early next week.

Jesus christ, this thing is beautiful! I was looking at pre cursa builds last couple of weeks and this one got me into ordering one. :) I'll post once it's done. Was also wondering on stem length...

Anyone got a figure for the frameset weight that is realworld and not website?

1850 frame alone 56

1871g for a 56 FXE frame. Longer dropouts, bottle cage mounts, cable guides, rear brake mount account for the slightly heavier weight over the PC.

Punchy with no fork! Suppose for the price can't complain

Anyone know if the new Pre Cursa frame, that according to the site no longer fits Omniums, would accept the Miche Pistard Air? I think @Lukas you were asking for the same reason? Not sure if its the external BB that causes the issue on the newer frame or another property of the omniums

Crank spider arm was hitting the chain stay

And again, its now apparently been rectified. Call to check if they're still advertising the compatibility issue on the site though.

roe is correct and PhilDAS' advice is worth following (or email them). I've fitted a Pistard Air to a Pursuit Champion, which has a slimmer/tighter rear end anyway, and there's approx. 10mm of clearance between the chainring tabs of the spider, or approx. 12mm at the end of the crank arm, and the chainstays.
The chainring tabs on the Pistard Air aren't as porky as they are on the Omnium (IIRC), so if you did get one of the Omnium-incompatible frames, the Pistard Air would probably just about fit. Still, best to contact them and try to get one from the latest batch, that definitely will work with both cranks.

Proud owner and new member of the club. This frame is great.