-
• #2677
It helped design to drop and pick up the chain.
It's not just the ramp and pin, but also the teeth shape and the thickness of it.
On a true singlespeed chain, the teeth is symmetrical, whether on a double/triple, they are not (especially on modern chainring).
If you look closer you can see some of the teeth are not even;
You can probably get away with it, but it's best to eer on the side of caution by not suggesting this option.
-
• #2678
What does this do?
I cannot see that it acts/integrates with any part of the bike.
Folded or otherwise.
*Mystified
-
• #2679
The square hole is for a pulley block that routes the shift cable on Bromptons with internally-geared hubs. Looks like you have a two-speed, and do not have this pulley block.
paste end
1 Attachment
-
• #2680
F*ck me, that was quick! :)
You are correct.
Mine is a 2 speed - no need for a pulley block.
Ta! -
• #2681
Hmmmm, chrome Brompton. Must get on with my restoration project on my rat Brompton. Just as soon as I've finished the P2 rebuild, the P5 build, @Cycliste's new TT bike and I've finished rebuilding my Cannondale. Then I'll get right on with it.
-
• #2682
Is that chrome or the nickel plated limited edition? Maybe not actually Google image shows that the limited edition has black rear triangle...
-
• #2683
Good luck on the hinge from the sound of it!
I dare you to take it to my shop just to get a quote for the lols.
-
• #2684
I used to use a roll of tape so that the saddle would go up to the correct length every time but now someone else uses the Brompton reasonably regularly so I can't do that. What are the suggestions for marking the seatpost so it's easy to get to the correct height each time? I've tried sharpies/permanent marker but that rubs off pretty quickly.
-
• #2685
If the other person is shorter than you then this could work? https://bromptonjunction.com/shop/saddle-height-insert/
-
• #2686
Unfortunately they're taller. I was using a bit of tape as a cheap version of that.
-
• #2687
This'll make you laugh.
It had me in fits.
I've just finished chasing and facing the BB shell on mine, in anticipation of fitting it with a Shimano Alfine with a 52T ring, and sexy Taiwanese CNC'd guard.
Anyone thinking of doing this for weight weenie reasons might want to reconsider....
The original Brompton kit, with a FAG BB, at 54T - 916g.
The Shimano kit tips my kitchen scales at 1100g.
Prettier, but at a price / cost.
I'll see how I get on with it. I'm not binning the Brompton chainset / BB just yet.
I daresay the DA / Ultegra BBs are lighter with their ally (as opposed to steel) spindle.
I'd be interested to know - if anyone has had theirs on the scales.
Meh! -
• #2688
Free rear wheel, 3sp sturmey needing love... Thread here....
https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/298783/#comment13428509
Cheers
-
• #2689
Dremmel or similar rotary tool. Get the seat at the right height, double double check, then engrave a little line on the post just above where the seat tube stops. Presto.... Get the sharpie on it then, and it should stay in the groove to make it a little more visable.
-
• #2690
Sounds like a recipe for a snapped seatpost :
-
• #2691
Nah. I don't mean go wild. Just easier to mark with a rotary tool than trying to scratch a line with something sharp. Though a few strokes with hacksaw blade should do it easier. It's just about marking the surface, not trying to cut it open. Bare metal frames don't snap when you accidentally scratch them. Go take your alloy seat post out of pretty much any old bike, and see how it's scratched and marked and yet not snapped.
Clearly I take no responsibility for what people do, but it works fine on mine and mines an extended post, almost at full extension.
-
• #2692
I did ponder scoring it but decided that I didn't really fancy the risk, particularly given how extended the Brompton seatpost is.
-
• #2693
Fair enough. Each to their own. If it ever snaps I'll report back, but I doubt that would ever happen. A heavy steel post like that would have to deform massively before it actually ended up in two. Not something you'd miss.
-
• #2694
I've seen people suggest using a centrepunch before; that seems like it might be less of a crack initiation risk than scoring a line, but will of course be less easy to see.
-
• #2695
Except that you'd be more likely to deform the tube from the impact therefore making it less likely to slide up/down easily. (Still highly unlikely, but probably more likely than a post failing because of a small score/engrave line done properly).
-
• #2696
Or just use the Brompton seatposr height shim that come with the bike instead.
Job done.
-
• #2697
Ooooh what's that?
-
• #2698
Found it. Snazzy. But, it won't work for aggi, as they share the bike and the other person is taller so the post will need to extend further than the limiter..
They come with new bikes (from 2015 apparently), but is retrofittable to older bikes.
-
• #2699
Get telescope seatposr and add that.
Use the shim for the other person, and telescope seatposr for the taller one.
I'd mark the telescope seatposr part than the actual seatpost.
-
• #2700
Clever idea that, if a little costly.
I can't see why a ramped/pinned chain ring would make any difference. Surely it's designed to help moving between the cogs when "you" decide to shift.