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• #477
That's not bad at all for a first handle. Where the handle joins the cup you can see that you used clay on the handle to make a join, which made the handle thinner at these points. To counter that you can tap on the respective ends of the handle to widen them a little just before you attach them.
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• #478
I see. Sound advice there. That's the thing with crafts its knowledge that's passed along. So the next espresso cup I make (there will be more) will have a round and better handle
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• #479
I'd start with the carving blank securely clamped, or held in a vice. Then make a drawing, which is usually just a side profile ( driveside, natch ). I'd then cut the profile with either a jigsaw, or with a coping saw for more delicate areas. A cordless drill is handy for removing difficult to reach material at speed, but you need to be sure about exactly what you want to remove, and be aware that it could go too deep and make a mess of everything.
After that, gradually get closer to the final shape with a succession of gouges, starting with deep and working to shallower and attempting to get to a shape that won't require too much filing with rasps or rough sanding. Then it's sandpaper, ranging from about 80 - 500 grit, in a process that seems to last forever, until there's no signs of any scratches left. It's very time consuming, but the smoother surface suits those timbers with a more interesting grain pattern.
The initial blank was 203mm x 102mm x 76mm, so power tools and their associated noise and mess could be avoided with something that small.
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• #480
You could probably make it with 4 or 5 selected carving chisels, but I've collected quite a few now, so end up using a lot more than that.
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• #481
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• #482
Tidy!
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• #483
Christmas Triceratops ought to be a thing!
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• #484
As a very recently un-lapsed member of lfgss I thought I'd introduce myself and my craft - silversmithing.
I'm Thomas and I make parts for the double reed family of musical instruments. Specifically metal work for ergonomics of the instruments (new keys etc) and the crooks (for those not dialled in these are the first tubular section of the instrument and have a large impact on the sound).
My focus is on the Bassoon family and I specialise in using sterling silver and more esoteric plating on brass - the three contrabassoon crooks in the photo are all brass alloys, (L-R) plated with black nickel, red gold and unplated yellow brass.
My studio/workshop is in New Cross Gate.
More work on my Instagram @thomasstonemusic
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• #485
Holy shit that's impressive.
Cool line of work to get into. I studied instrument making at uni but the woodwind workshop was a mythical realm of wonders. -
• #486
Nice to see you back, Thomas.
Loving the work.
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• #487
That's really kind, thank you edmundro. I started this out if necessity after damaging part of my own instrument and it snowballed from there.
Cheers
Thomas -
• #488
It's good to be back Andy !
Glad to see familiar folks still on
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• #489
Spent the morning adding handles to espresso cups I threw on Friday.
It is really satisfying once you get into a rhythm. For handling I always choose the pots I'm least happy with first, so I can practice a bit. Once I get in the 'zone' I totally forget about time. Started at 8 and am absolutely starving now.
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• #490
They look great.
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• #491
Thanks!
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• #492
Sort of urn-thing I'm currently making. It was going to be a tea pot but that idea has slipped away
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• #493
Here are the espresso cups glazed and fired. I used glaze powder that I bought 3 years ago and had never used before. Bit of a gamble but it came out very nice.
PS: it's supposed to be green but I don't mind.
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• #494
They look amazing.
Do you supply a shop or sell on line?
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• #495
I guess it's a bit like how to draw an owl.
Until you get into it and feel the shape developing.
Ta
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• #496
Anybody done any amateur upholstery? I tempted to build a small stool for the wife's dressing table and a foot rest so I keep my feet off the coffee table.
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• #497
^ yes. Can't help particularly with the building bit, but upholstery of simple things without pleats is relatively easy. I am a complete novice but have successfully recovered some g plan chairs and a piano bench stool. It is easiest if you do it once in calico, and then cover it with your chosen fabric. you just pull it evenly tight and tack it with nails, and then probably staple gun it (or nail it in properly if you're doing it traditionally). Corners are like neatly wrapping a present. I'd start with something square/rectangular - corners not curves. Measure lots before cutting!
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• #498
I'd love to learn pottery, one day.
Something I was working on last week. Facet size is 5mm. Can't go into further detail on here tho.
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• #499
Thanks man. Nothing online - just came about that a local coffee stall has taken some cups on to sell. Will see how that goes first.
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• #500
I'm looking at getting a wheel and a shed to put it in. Just to practice more than anything. The other issue is the kiln. very expensive to buy. If I take the pots to my pottery class to fire, they charge for it. Also have to get them there and back without any damage.
The handle is poor. Never made a handle before
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