Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

even the world champ faces the same issue:

https://www.bikerumor.com/2017/01/15/spotted-peter-sagan-rolls-the-gold-wheels-at-the-tour-down-under/

Hmm... cassette spacer? How thick is a credit card?

I guess thats why Sram has decided to make modulation as their 'thing' for marketing the HRD platform.

So this issue only happens to world champs?

:)

Odd, I thought SRAM was making recalls their 'thing'?

Modulation on the Shimano is fine, once you overcome the large initial lever throw. The issue is noticeable now I have the bike back because I've been wearing thick gloves and I'm squashing them under the levers sometimes.

how many miles since you changed the pads?

I have similar issue although not quite bottoming out but about 80% there. I have done 1500 miles. Tried re-bleed to see if any air bubbles trapped, nope.

They're pretty new. I wore out a set on TCR and threw another set in afterwards then crashed so the bike hasn't been ridden.

Thinking about it, the MT6 Maguras I have had a similar problem.

The solution I found was use the standard bleed block and do a bleed, except when the bleed is good, remove the bleed block, mount the caliper on the bike with pads, pop the wheel in, then open the caliper port and push an additional amount of fluid in to close the gap between pad and rotor, close the port, remove the wheel and pads then tidy up.

I did almost identically that with the Shimano road hydraulic and now the back brake felt as sharp as the front.

I suppose it's not too different to using a smaller bleed block - except it accounts for pad wear.

I did it with a bit of risk by using a contaminated pads and leaving the wheel in place instead of a bleed block.

Squeezing the levers to push the pads in a bit more without the rotor also helped tho.

I haven't got the bleed kit for Shimano. It'll have to wait. Or I'll take it to a shop.

After completing the bleed process, keep the syringe attached to the calliper. I reinserted the wheel, adjusted for max lever throw & reach, then added a few extra millilitres of hydraulic fluid to the system. You can then meaningfully use those adjustment screws to dial in the setup. If you keep the bleed syringe attached through this process you continue to add/remove until perfect. Faff but worked for me at least

Make sure you screw the calliper bleed screw back tight each time you test the setup, otherwise you'll push the fluid back out

There's an echo in here

Soho Bikes Mario is good with this stuff if you need a pro to get it done right first time.

This.

Best to get it done by a reputable shop, especially when they can see whether there's an issues with the brake or not.

Whoops, missed your comment. Sound advice!

attention @amey :)


Dura-ace R9170

that is ridic light .. lighter than 9000 shifters and brakes .. the ball is clearly in frame/bike designers court now.

Nice but pricey etc
http://www.starbike.com/en/shimano-dura-ace-di2-disc-brake-set-st-r9170-br-r9170-rear/
http://www.starbike.com/en/shimano-dura-ace-di2-disc-brake-set-st-r9170-br-r9170-front/

Di2 is kinda cheating though? Doesn't the junction box balance the difference?

dont know... gut it for a weight weenie ss setup if you are rich :)

(new to me)
Trp has a new flat mount caliper and hylex is phased out for new hylex rs:

https://www.trpbrakes.com/category.php?productid=1302&catid=206

Can someone confirm these are post mount before I buy 'em?

Seen conflicting reports elsewhere.

yes

Seen conflicting reports elsewhere.

do you have a link?