Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

Is Meths still ok to use? I remember an old mtb trick of setting your pads on fire to get rid of contaminants, not sure how sensible that is.

Squealing or just rubbing? Do not get MucOff on the rotors or pads. They pretty much have to go straight in the bin if you do

Dishwasher is caustic enough.

Fire works too but not too much fire

It’s safe on all surfaces, and it’s even disc brake rotor and pad friendly.

Says Mr Muc Off

Muc off is fine, yeah.

The stuff it dislodges from other bits on your bike might not be fine. Maybe that's what happened to Turkish.

Fire works too but not too much fire

Is there anything this is not true for?

Never had a problem with this myself but the bike shop I used to work in were adamant that muc-off was kept away from disk rotors/pads and rims with rim brakes. They might have just been overly cautious, as I think they only used isopropyl for discs

I can imagine that in a shop where you have the right tools for things (isopropyl) it makes sense, but same as Howard, I've never had any issues using MucOff on my disc braked bikes

Aren't the proprietary disc brake cleaners just isopropyl alcohol (IPA) which can be brought much cheaper than the proprietary stuff. It's what I use to clean my pads (disc and rim brake) along with rotors and rims if they're really grotty.

Probably, but the only place I could get that from on the way home was Maplin, where a 400ml can was £9.99 vs £4.99 for 250ml Evans brake cleaner.

Seems to have done the job anyway.

Fair enough. Glad its done the job.

Although not on the way home, you can get a litre of IPA (the solvent not nice beer) from Amazon for £7.49. You want the pure stuff, >99%. That's 1000 ml not the volume in the spray cans of disc cleaner which I imagine to be much lower. At work we buy it from chemical companies for much less but I don't know if they sell to individuals.

I buy it from lab stores at £1/2L. If people bring (appropriate) bottles I'm happy to decant a bit over.

Back to perfect braking. Good scrub of the rotors and ran a clean rag soaked in cleaner over the pads a few times

Car disc brake cleaner is way cheaper than bike specific disc brake cleaner and the ingredients are identical I think. Isopropyl can be had off ebay for cheaps too

cranky have you bought an adapter for 140 to 160 (post mount) ? was anything resolved. I listened to @edscoble and went with an upgrade to 160mm at the front

Wait.

Someone listened to me?

Someone listened to me?

That's it then. Shut down the forum.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-MH6JZdGZcI

Not me, think it was @MBroady. I remember chipping in to the conversation but I wasn't after an adapter.

Nah, common sense prevailed. Proof that there could still be hope for humanity in 2017! ;)

My CL RS4's 142/12 & 100/15 turned up today for my build. So beefy. Pretty sure I read that Hope had made them quieter but that certainly doesn't see to be the case. Full steam ahead with my build now. .

Anyone tried using undersized bleed blocks or DIY bleed blocks to bring Shimano road discs free-stroke / lever-throw down?

https://www.shapeways.com/product/A9DAXVXWP/bleed-block-5mm?li=shareProduct
https://www.shapeways.com/product/NN5BKSGNJ/bleed-block-1mm?optionId=57888666&li=related-items

from: http://forums.roadbikereview.com/components-wrenching/shimano-r785-disc-levers-have-excessive-free-stroke-343759.html

With the pads a bit worn my levers are almost bottoming out. If I remove the wheel and squeeze them they reset to be too close so the brakes are 'on'. It's getting a bit annoying.

Are you using shimano rotors, yah?

Of corks

Thanks for the link

If I remove the wheel and squeeze them they reset to be too close so the brakes are 'on'.

quickfix: When you do the above try using something 1mm thick in place of the rotors

so not air (0mm) and not a rotor (1,75mm) but something inbetween :)