On One Pompino owners...

Does not apply to track chain (1/8) setup.

Just wondering if there are any 170ish cm tall people riding mediums? I have a kaffenback in small and it shares the same geo with the pomp. inseam is 80 if that matters at all.. as well all know with this bike toe overlap on the small is a bastard.. and I'm running 170 cranks. I just wanted to check if anyone was running 165 on a medium around my height successfully.. I plan on running it ss during the winter but would like to switch to fixed in the summer and am not a fan of surprise toe overlap running fixed haha

183 running small pompetamine with 175mm cranks - not having issues with toe overlap on 33c tires.

Oh wow. That sounds promising. Could I trouble you for a pic?

Horrible pics, but what I have

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That is the most random assortment of bike pics I've ever seen +1

I had a Kaffenback in small previously and regretted not getting a medium due to the severe toe overlap even with a 165 crankset. This time I did my sums and worked out that a medium pomp should be fine with the right stem and bars. There is only 1.8cm more standover height and the medium's effective top tube length is less than my touring bike. I am about 165cm tall. I may need a shorter stem than the one I have at the moment- current one is 90mm, possibly I need a 70 or 80, which is no big deal.

I'm 173 and riding a medium Pompino since Oct '16.

It is technically a bit long for me for drop bar use - have to use a 60/70mm stem but in a way I wanted that, so I could also try it out with flat bars (which a shorter top tube would be too short for) or wide dirt drop bars with a short stem.

I have also had (and sold) a small Kaffenback which was really too small, despite the fact that it has my preferred 53cm top tube for a drop bar road bike - the headtube was just too short meaning I had tonnes of saddle-bar drop even with 4cm+ of spacers and a flipped up stem. It also had bad toeverlap with 165mm cranks.

I've also been surprised at how well the paint (or lack of) has held up on my raw model, given that I have raced it in Yorkshire's worst mud and jetwashed it several times.

I've raced the Pompino in the Yorkshire CX league. I do wish it had more tyre clearance - or at least mud-shedding clearance - I probably wouldn't run wider than the 33c tyres I have now, it's done the job for trying CX out and I love the geo. Makes me want a 29er with the same geo - tight front end and not suspension corrected.

I've also ridden it on most of the same trails I MTB on, bar the downhilly bits. Makes it funner!

If I get more into CX it won't be used though, for clearance reasons. I spent about 60% of the last race running. To be fair, so did most other people, even those with carbon disc frames, but I got the feeling they collected mud less quickly than me. Probably the fact that they had pit bikes and bike-wash-b*tches was the biggest difference though!

One day, when I learn more about framebuilding, if I still own it I may try to remove the chain stay bridge and move it further up or replace it with a curved one, as well as adding a bit more of a dent on the stays for clearance.

If I had a custom frame built, I'd be tempted to base it on the Pomp geo, with a bit more room out back and a longer headtube to remove the need for spacers.

I have used 170mm and 165mm cranks - no overlap with 165s (size 9 shimano clipless shoes) and slight overlap with 170mm but nothing to make me panic, even on tight race switchbacks.

To sum up: it's a cool bike - when I bought the frame, you could get a Genesis day one disc for just £400, but for some reason (despite mixed dealings with PX in the past), it tempted me.

@Thuekr - cheers. those pictures are awesome, haha!

@niggle - sounds like my issue. thanks for your input.

@user72800 - wow, thanks for taking the time to type out all this great info. The bit you mentioned here: " the headtube was just too short meaning I had tonnes of saddle-bar drop even with 4cm+ of spacers and a flipped up stem. It also had bad toeverlap with 165mm cranks. " is exactly the problem I'm having. See pic:

Stem is a 70 with an obvious rise. Even with that setup there is still a pretty big drop. I could definitely stand to stretch out a bit more but this is just a stem I had spare. I can only assume that if I had gotten a medium, that I would level out a bit and have a more comfortable ride. We share the same size shoe so also interesting to hear about the clearance on the medium.

Again, thanks for all the info, you've helped me decide.

That is the most random assortment of bike pics I've ever seen +1

Yea no kidding, outstanding work Thue.

@enghoff inspiration for a new storage solution that isnt so hard on the headset?

Yeah - it always annoyed me a bit - One One are so often at the forefront of new ideas and making them affordable - the 29er (inbred) and the Kaffenback's basically one of these gravel bikes everyone wets themselves about now, but they're never quite spot on and the annoying thing is they're not cost issues - you could accept bad paint or ugly welds, but geometry/design ones, which if solved would make some of these bikes total winners.

But they are cheap, cheerful and long-lasting - a colleague is running a 10 year old 26er SS inbred with 650b 2.3 tyres, having ground off a bit of the wishbone and brazed a flat covering plate back on to seal it. He's intending to extend the horizontal dropouts too. Also been powdercoated.

He will have spent 2-3x the original price in the end, but the point is you wouldn't want to experiment on a more expensive frame...

Be careful of security guards on the stairs.

They are everywhere :)

https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/296796/

Thanks

Just built, for comparison:

EDIT: should have said medium frame for a 165cm tall bloke, 90mm stem (which might actually be OK. Mind you still have toe overlap...

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I´m 169 cm and ride a medium V4 with a 90 mm stem and On One Mary bars. It has significant toe overlap. I previously had a V3 small and that had a massive toe overlap.

Bike is looking classy. Is the overlap on the mudguards or the tyre?

Just rode mine 20 miles off road and no probs with toe overlap. No mudguards...

so guys just to reiterate; the difference between a v3 and v4 is seatstays and geometry; with 72 degree head and seattube for the v4 and 73 head, 73,5 degree seattube for the v3.
also of course measurements but lets say i'll work that out with longer/shorter stem.

what would the "ride difference" be between these two versions? i understand, steeper tubes > more agressive?

I dont think v3 was ever 73 degree headtube. On-one just measured the new version better...

This

confusing. I have a geo chart on my computer which states 73 degree.
anyway, let say it is true because they say so; what would the effective difference be?
anybody ridden a v3 and a v4 and can speak from experience? cheers

Depends on fork, tyre, pressures, weight distribution...

Yes probably the mudguard more than the tyre, exacerbated further by the way the stay wraps round the back of the guard- it is the stay that I caught my toe on. OTOH this is with 165mm cranks and size 7 shoes. It does of course only affect very low speed sharp turns.