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(Random idea...)
You could make this (green part) as a 1-2mm thick steel plate and either clamp it on the outside of the dropout with the 2 brake bolts and the left wheel fastener.or run it on the inside of the dropout (so the frame is slightly widened to 136-137mm)
It will keep the brake aligned with the wheel.
Extra bonus finesse would be to have the 10mm hole for the wheel axle be open ended
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svenhöek-
Some incredible hacking skills, likely beyond me, though I could consider approaching some of the workshops in the uni I work at. Not super in to the idea of re cold setting my frame
I think I see how your second proposed solution works in terms of aligning the caliper to the wheel. Once set in position am I right in saying that you would need to take out the skewer completely to get the wheel out (unless you make it open ended as suggested).
sidewinder
Running a pompetamine as a single speed, currently to remove/do any sort of rear wheel adjustments (or even if I had a puncture) I have to to loosen then disc brake mount in order to that I can slide the wheel sufficiently forward to have enough slack to decouple the chain/remove the wheel without it fouling on the caliper.
This is clearly not ideal as I have to go through the rigmarole of trying to find a position for the wheel (within the dropout), chain length/tension and caliper positioning that works (and reset up the bb7s, somewhat fiddly), this generally takes some time and swearing, I seem also to always end up with the chain slightly slacker than I would like.
Are there any solutions to this, I would like to be in the situation where I can change a puncture in less than an hour! I get the feeling that ultimately I would be better with a standard drop out frame and an eccentric bottom bracket to adjust tension, or the clever drop outs on the nature boy disc that move the caliper as you tension the chain (is anyone else producing a similar solution to this).