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I have a pompetamine. I have trouble spyres.
I've thrown the wheel in and out with out touching the brakes. Am i doing it wrong?
Chalfie-
Likely not, the problem caused by a combination of things, I have 'picked' a chain length which puts my wheel in a sensible place in the drop outs, with my current cogs one link either way puts it very close to either end of the drop out (could maybe be helped by a half link/different cog combo). The caliper is then positioned as best I can to be optimal for the rotor and the brakes set up, somewhat fiddly with bb7s but in my experience then don't need touching, other than to dial in the pads.
The problem comes when, for example it is new chain time, with my set up (and a kmc chain) I can't move the wheel far enough forward to get the chain off/decouple the magic link (perhaps could be helped by a different chain/magic link) without fouling the caliper, hence I have to loosen the caliper, necessitating my re-setting up the brakes. I suspect your TRP (typo?) calipers have a design, coupled with your chain length and chain choice such that you have enough wriggle room to do this.
Worth knowing for if I ever consider a different caliper.
sidewinder
Running a pompetamine as a single speed, currently to remove/do any sort of rear wheel adjustments (or even if I had a puncture) I have to to loosen then disc brake mount in order to that I can slide the wheel sufficiently forward to have enough slack to decouple the chain/remove the wheel without it fouling on the caliper.
This is clearly not ideal as I have to go through the rigmarole of trying to find a position for the wheel (within the dropout), chain length/tension and caliper positioning that works (and reset up the bb7s, somewhat fiddly), this generally takes some time and swearing, I seem also to always end up with the chain slightly slacker than I would like.
Are there any solutions to this, I would like to be in the situation where I can change a puncture in less than an hour! I get the feeling that ultimately I would be better with a standard drop out frame and an eccentric bottom bracket to adjust tension, or the clever drop outs on the nature boy disc that move the caliper as you tension the chain (is anyone else producing a similar solution to this).