On One Pompino owners...

Correct.

What's the stem angle to match top tube angle? 6°?

i hope your hands are not too numb! i used that idea one time.... went back to "normal" grips after the first ride....

Depends what your headtube angle is and whether your top tube is actually flat.

10°
YMMW

Aren't all pomps the same in that dept?

Ha, well I'm finding it not too bad. The new cockpit went on as a spur of the moment thing, with the intention of getting some "normal" grips sorted at some point.

To be honest though they're perfectly fine for the riding I'm doing at the moment — no numbness, soreness, etc. Think in the summer it will be too warm for them and they'll start to sweat and chafe—so likely I'll replace when it starts to become an issue.

Running a pompetamine as a single speed, currently to remove/do any sort of rear wheel adjustments (or even if I had a puncture) I have to to loosen then disc brake mount in order to that I can slide the wheel sufficiently forward to have enough slack to decouple the chain/remove the wheel without it fouling on the caliper.

This is clearly not ideal as I have to go through the rigmarole of trying to find a position for the wheel (within the dropout), chain length/tension and caliper positioning that works (and reset up the bb7s, somewhat fiddly), this generally takes some time and swearing, I seem also to always end up with the chain slightly slacker than I would like.

Are there any solutions to this, I would like to be in the situation where I can change a puncture in less than an hour! I get the feeling that ultimately I would be better with a standard drop out frame and an eccentric bottom bracket to adjust tension, or the clever drop outs on the nature boy disc that move the caliper as you tension the chain (is anyone else producing a similar solution to this).

Sliding dropouts

Rocking dropouts:

I have sliders on my SSCX, they work very well. There are few OTP frames that come with these (hence why I went custom) but the Specialised Awol has their own version of rockers, which could work for you:

All of the above also allow the wheel to drop out vertically, meaning even with single speed you can change wheels/tubes without moving the position of the dropouts

All look good/better than what I am facing with the pompetamine commuter, hopefully having sorted a new chain it should not require touching for at least another 6 months. On the plus side I have decided to stop commuting with a tool kit as I am not going to be doing this roadside.

Considering options to get to a better situation, cheapest is perhaps ditching the rear brake and running a fixed hub (never tried fixed so could be fun, Nottingham is however quite hilly in places, though not my commute), more expensive being to have new drop outs welded in (~£100 cost similar to pomp frame price, seems a bit mad) or new frame/bike, either the commuter or downgrade my nice bike to ss (with an ebb) and buy a new 'best' bike...I suspect I will just persevere, luckily I have been very lucky with punctures/vittoria randonneurs are amazing?

I have a pompetamine. I have trouble spyres.
I've thrown the wheel in and out with out touching the brakes. Am i doing it wrong?

anyone wann get rid of a medium pompino, preferably the raw colourway and v4? i just missed out on the fibonacci sale because i thought itld run till today not yday.
https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/298767/#comment13418913

cheers, ruud

Pompetamine hack where you create a second set of sliding dropouts that the disc caliper mounts to. (but with a hacky narrow 122mmOLN 5 speed hub)
https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/246792/

@Hulsroy did a similar thing with his old Pomp (disc caliper mounted behind stay) https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/251089/

Sounds as though he cold set rear spacing to 145mm (from 120mm, to accommodate a 135mm hub and the sliders).

I imagine between both those examples there's a solution that fits what you're talking about ... for example you could get away with going from 135 -> ~142mmOLN (assuming 6mm plate sliders and a 130mmOLN hub).

(Random idea...)

You could make this (green part) as a 1-2mm thick steel plate and either clamp it on the outside of the dropout with the 2 brake bolts and the left wheel fastener.

or run it on the inside of the dropout (so the frame is slightly widened to 136-137mm)

It will keep the brake aligned with the wheel.

Extra bonus finesse would be to have the 10mm hole for the wheel axle be open ended

1 Attachment

• Pompetamine disc adjuster2.pdf

Likely not, the problem caused by a combination of things, I have 'picked' a chain length which puts my wheel in a sensible place in the drop outs, with my current cogs one link either way puts it very close to either end of the drop out (could maybe be helped by a half link/different cog combo). The caliper is then positioned as best I can to be optimal for the rotor and the brakes set up, somewhat fiddly with bb7s but in my experience then don't need touching, other than to dial in the pads.

The problem comes when, for example it is new chain time, with my set up (and a kmc chain) I can't move the wheel far enough forward to get the chain off/decouple the magic link (perhaps could be helped by a different chain/magic link) without fouling the caliper, hence I have to loosen the caliper, necessitating my re-setting up the brakes. I suspect your TRP (typo?) calipers have a design, coupled with your chain length and chain choice such that you have enough wriggle room to do this.

Worth knowing for if I ever consider a different caliper.

Some incredible hacking skills, likely beyond me, though I could consider approaching some of the workshops in the uni I work at. Not super in to the idea of re cold setting my frame

I think I see how your second proposed solution works in terms of aligning the caliper to the wheel. Once set in position am I right in saying that you would need to take out the skewer completely to get the wheel out (unless you make it open ended as suggested).

I have no real room to play with. Wheel is on the limit of the dropout I think. I took it to a shop and said "make it work".

Which limit? If you have no room to play with how do you get enough slack in the system to decouple/unship chain?

Outside position would work with a 10mm track axle. If you have a quick-release inside would be better. Yes it should be open-ended for easy wheel removal.

The pompetamine is steel. I dont think you need to cold set for 1mm, just force it in place :)

@sidewinder
Have you tried derailing the chain off the chain ring first? This should give enough slack to take out the wheel without touching the brake.

I haven't looked for a bit. Just looked now. It's slammed forward. I just remembered the mechanic having a moan.

I assumed smaller sizes might be slacker at the front, and v4 be different in general.

In hindsight, the toe overlap might indicate consistent headangles throughout...

If slammed forwards then I imagine you may face a similar issue? Possibly even necessitating splitting/joing chain in situ?

@svendhöek good to know I have an Allen key skewer so it would be inside, if I meet a friendly machinist in the uni I may set them the challenge. Yeah no worries about 1mm I was referring to the other options

@drøn I have tried this, think I might of managed with an old chain but not on general

I actually don't know myself...

I have tried this, think I might of managed with an old chain but not on general

If you can't possibly derail your chain, you must be running it too tight.