Functional bikes. Not Porn not Anti

how funny would it be if that orange frame had thru axles

so bloody good!

Loop 710

SBC cycled have a pretty good selection of wierd bars. im not mad into the extra loop but if you want wide and swept, look at onza http://www.tredz.co.uk/.Onza-Straight-Oversized-Handlebar_43503.htm?sku=125733&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google_shopping&gclid=CKvEoo24q9ECFQoo0wod56QI2w

or gusset stash. both really comfy over distances

Humpert City Cruisers are nice too.

I am thinking of converting my bike to drop bar so might have one for sell with ESI grips.

Made by Thomas Becker (I love the little pump);
https://www.flickr.com/photos/meerglas/

Are yours silver? Do it. They'd go nicely on my Genesis.

On-one Mary bars are also a classic and come in both 31.8 and 25.4

Fuckin killer. <3

@Hulsroy downgrade from rotor to beater crankset? also where'd u buy the surly 24pac?

Thank you.

I have 'upgraded' (as I see it) to square taper bb and 110bcd = cheap narrow wide chainrings.

I will use the rotors on my next project, but for now they will go on my sscx to make that lighter for muddy races for the remaining season.
I bought the rack from @jammy.

I get bikepacking. But sometimes you just need a rack and some panniers.

I'm not able to post this picture...
http://www.stanforthbikes.co.uk/?lightbox=dataItem-is76ojlg

I'm not able to post this picture...
stanforthbikes.co.uk/?lightbo­x=dataItem-is76ojlg

You can have both, this to me is the best option.

Two small lightweight pannier on a lightweight rack, and a frame bag with saddle bag.

You can have your cake and eat it.

^+1 but without the saddle bag, TT style seat mounted water bottles taking its place!

Awesome!

Thanks, already had the feeling that you were gonna take care of it haha

Winner

For my next touring tandem custom bike, I think I will choose square bb, with phil wood or white industries titanium axle and white industries vbc crankset x2. What do you think about that configuration ?
First I wanted WI G30 crank but the chainine will be not good with the rolhoff for my framebuilder.

with phil wood or white industries titanium axle.

Not worth it titanium are lovely, but a lots of money just to save a bit of weight, and more chance of the axle breaking.

If you really want to keep the weight down, go for a Shimano Hollowtech II chainset, stiff, light and the external bottom bracket can be have for so little, that if you replace it regularly, it still be cheaper than an expensive square taper.

With that in mind if you're still persistent in going for square taper (for reason I can emphasised and understand).

Best to stick to either the trusty Shimano UN55 bottom bracket, for go for the SKF bottom bracket.

The UN55 is in my opinion, the best value bottom bracket and also the most reliables.

The SKF is a massive step up, and I would go as far as to says it'd be better than Phil Woods (especially in value), they have better weather sealing and should last even decades.

My advice is to go for the UN55, because they're so cheap, I have seen and build bicycle whose UN55 (and the previous generation UN54) bottom bracket is still the picture of health after many years.

Good shout on the White Industries G30, I might get those for my touring bike.

(For what it's worth, I ran a White Industries VBC with the Shimano UN54 as it was called, and the bearing is still smooth after 10,000km, including the 1400k London-Edinburgh-London, 600k Bryan Chapman Memorial, a handful of 400k and dozen of 200k).

Thanks for advices ! Hard to choose, and difficult idea to put a "cheap" bb on a 8k€ bike... !

Get the skf then. They're about as good as it's gets for square taper. No point in paying extra for a shiny Phil one you'll never see. But I do agree with Ed the un-55 is by far the best value competent there ever is.

and difficult idea to put a "cheap" bb on a 8k€ bike... !

Well, if you think about it, a lots of components on expensive bike are cheap, such as the brake cable, chains, cassette, even the stem.

You don't need to spend a lots of money on cassette, they all wear out almost equally, nor a chain for similar reason.

Brake cable can be hard to tell, the biggest difference is usually housing and the cable housing end (cheap housing end actually create friction).

Stem, you can just get a £15 one that work just as well as a £80 one, the difference is way too small to warrant such upgrade (maybe lose 5 to 10g, perhaps a little stiffer), and even those difference may be hard to notice to some people.

There are some components that are worth spending money on, but a lots of them that are not necessary.

Visualised this, riding your new Tandem, what will you notice? the ride, the components working as intended, the fit? etc.

I will bet actual money that you will have a massively hard time noticing cheap components when they work, the only thing that will affect you is the placebo effect.