Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

Got one with my Cotic Escapade and use it with a Hope disc hub. It holds the wheel rock solid I do have to clamp it a bit tighter than I would a normal skewer, but I can live with that.

what are the go to replacement pads for trp spyre? Are the FWE organic pads ok, or are the superstar kevlar worth the extra?

Regular Shimano resin are brilliant.

So after having all sorts of trouble with my HY/RD, I found an answer.

Juddering TRP brakes: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1T2RLgQoyvs

Turns out that Shimano Centrelock rotors are less deep than the Avid ISO ones I'd been using previously. So the brake pads would catch on the rotor arms. That hadn't been a problem with Spyres because they didn't give enough braking force. But the HY/RDs were catching.

So I switched the rotor back to a slightly more agricultural ISO one and all's well and it doesn't feel like the fork's shaking itself apart.

Most disc brake have a play in the pads, which is not noticeable when riding, only when pushing the bike backward.

I have bit of play in my front wheel when rocking back and forth on the brake whilst stationary. Can't isolate it - is it pad play?

Possibly - turn the bars 90 deg and if it disappears then it probably is.

Sorry I'm a bit late with this, I found using the 3mm Allen key adjusters on each pad to bring them as close as possible to the rotor improved things.

Check the arm is fully returning to the testing position too.

Ive read that the 3mm adjusters loosen up pretty quickly, so not been using them, just the barrel adjuster to bring the pads closer to the rotor. This might mean the arm is already too far away from the 'testing position'? Assuming testing position is when the arm is fully released, if that makes sense

Ah yes! I forgot you had them .. I think I had a play with them on your elephant in LCW .. I'll have to re-bleed as the frame is internally routed.

They do loosen up too readily unfortunately but they are the best way to adjust it. The Spyre seemingly has a similar ramp mechanism as the bb7 so using the barrel adjuster can affect the power of the brake.

I can't see that they do, but is there a matching non-disc lever if you're only running a front?

And TRP list the front brake as running from the left-hand lever (which is what I'd want): is that how they're supplied here, or is there a UK version which runs the front from the right-hand lever?

Get a pair, remove hoses and empty out the resevoir? Might rattle though. They have extra long hoods so I doubt theres anything that matches

Ah okay i'll have a fiddle later. Would there be any way to get some light loctite on the 3mm adjuster? Grip paste on the threads? I might be talking out of my arse

Would there be any way to get some light loctite on the 3mm adjuster?

You'd probably have to take the pistons out to do that. But yeah, they bloody need it!

That's the correct way to set up both Spyre and BB7.

And yes, the arm should be at the resting (pretty sure M_V has fat fingers and he didnt meant testing) position, maybe just a slight teeny bit of tension to take out the slack on the cable but it should never be pre-loaded too much i.e. resting position is at 5 o'clock, tension set at 4.

As the pistons are moved via the actuating arms, ramps and bearings, loading it means that the bearings are already on the ramps before the brakes are applied.

Cheers @Cranky and @Howard. And in both cases are those the big 9mm QRs or DT Swiss RWS or something different?

The Superstar 9mm QR (which appears to be a copy of the Novatec QR215) is a fair bit cheaper than the RWS, but I'm a little concerned about it being open cam.

There doesn't seem to be anything else available except for those two and when I emailed Superstar about whether they'd be getting black ones in again I got a generic copy and paste email saying thanks for my interest in their bearing tools. When I replied saying I was after 9mm QR thru axles (I'd included a link to them in my first email), I got another identical copy and paste, but they'd replaced bearing tools with 9mm QR thru axle, apologising that they were completely out of stock and didn't intend to get them in but that I could follow them on facebook... Ignoring the fact they have them in all other colours. :|

Maybe i misunderstood, are you not trying to run one hylex lever but need two hoods? Obviously dont empty the resevoir on both...

No, that's it: front brake only.

It's just that buying another brake, just for the lever seems a bit spendy.

Although, it is very Lufgus. :)

Yeah sorry, realised I wrote hoses instead of just hose. Spare hylex hoods do come up occasionaly on eBay I think. @svendhöek got one for his pre cursa hack. You can use shimano calipers to save a bit of money if you can find levers only

And in both cases are those the big 9mm QRs or DT Swiss RWS or something different?

RWS.

Ah ok, cheers. Got an opinion on the Novatec/Superstar open cam 9mm QR? Imminent fiery death or probably fine?

Never used it. Couldn't say. MTB forums elsewhere might have some chatter on it.

Got 135x10 and 170x9 fat-QRs on my new Sandman Gobi's FatLab wheels. The lever has a curve that makes the end poke your palm uncomfortably but I've only had 6 days riding on it so far so no conclusions on the open cam aspect yet.

I have TRP Hylex singlesped brakes currently, can I buy Shimano hydraulic levers and use them with the Hylex calipers?