Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

I am about to order new centerline rotors. still cant work out if I want to go up to 160 on the front! (I only consider it as the front could maybe be slightly more powerful, but I have some really shit weight weenie rotors currently)

Stick with 160mm, main reason is that it doesn't heat up as much as a 140mm.

Look for Stolen bmx cables on eBay, cable and outer for 7 quid.

Look for Stolen bmx cables on eBay...

Dude! Not cool.

Ha!

Cheers, definitely up for saving money. Those look great.

Am I right in thinking this Shimano F180P/P2 adapter will work going from 140 to 160, even though it's intended from 160 to 180.

If not, any suggestions?

Following on from the above, is there any reason why simple parallel spacers would not work (see pic)? Obviously having them as a single unit will be better regarding vibration / noise but I guess it would work.

Quote from the guys blog, seems somewhat reasonable:

"when one searches for post mount adapters to increase the rotor diameter to 160mm on a fork designed for 140mm rotors, not much other than the suggestion to use regular pm160 to pm180 adapters turns up. pm160/180 adapters are available in all shapes, weights and colors. they generally have a width of about 15mm for the top bolt and about 10mm for the bottom caliper attachment point. it works for 140 to 160 as well, but due to the smaller radius of the 160mm rotor, it places the caliper quite far out on the rotor. i played around a little and discovered that keeping the caliper parallel, with a spacing of 10mm top and bottom, worked just as well. in fact, it brings the caliper closer to the rotor and as a result, there’s more brake pad surface clamping the rotor, which in theory should improve overall brake performance.

i spent a good amount of time searching every hidden corner of the world wide web and was almost ready to just make my own aluminum spacers. fortunately, i ultimately found just the right size at toronto cycles. ordered four pieces. it would have cost me a lot more to make a pair and have it anodized locally. with the growing number of disc-equipped cross, gravel and road bikes, better suited pm140/160 adapters would be a nice thing to find on the market."

If you look at the progression in the numbers between 140<->160 and 160<->180 (dimensions A and C) they are not the same so short answer: no (about using 160<->180 adapter)

But because you are placing the caliper on a circle (the rotor) there is room for more than one correct way of doing it. So some diy trial and error maybe...

edit: But thinking it through your 160-180 adapter SHOULD work. It moves the caliper 1cm out and should be good for both situations.... ignore the above :)

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Should be fine. Some adaptors simply note the extra amount added, rather than a specific rotor size.

eg - omm, 20mm, 40mm...

TRP Hylex real world experience .. who has one? Would recommend? How easy/hard to bleed? I do shimano MTB and road (R785). I guess I'll have to compensate 10mm in stem reach to compensate for longer hoods.

Paging @Soul, @laner and @Jon.

No-one seems to have stock at the moment though.

I sold my hylex a while ago. Have HY/RD now.

I had major issues bleeding mine but, from what I remember, they were an early batch which had a fault and were replaced (with the ones I sold).

Anyone know how to get more power out of spyres? Modulation is good, but struggles to lock up the rear wheel. Stock pads a bit iffy?

@svendhöek great bit of info, what's the source of the diagram and tables? You always seem to be able to dig up this kind of extensive information.

Stock pads a bit iffy?

It won't be the pads. The stock ones stop fine.

They just don't last very long.

Get some scobleless housing and/or sand down pads and rotor, clean with isopropyl and bed in properly.

Got my R460 DB's in the mail today. They look really nice. Super well made.
RS4's not due till early next week.

Thanks (but wrong info for this particular instance...) That plan is from a shimano spec guide but I find most of the stuff in old posts on the mtbr.com forum. Most disc brake bodges have been tried already over there years ago...

Ive have included the plans I have in my disc brake measurements folder:

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• 6 Inch Post Mount.pdf
• Dimension_of_rear_post_mount_01.pdf
• Front QR IS.pdf
• Rear QR IS.pdf
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Thanks.

Compressionless outer

They're the best hydraulic levers you can buy for the money, you can adjusted the reach, but will have a bit of play (on mine).

Haven't bled mine yet.

I asked in the road wheels thread but didn't get any responses, so I'll try here...

Has anyone tried a 9mm qr thru axle (either dt swiss RWS or novatec/superstar 9mm qr) with compatible wheels? If so, did you notice any difference/improvement compared to regular 5mm QRs?

Turns out my current dt swiss r24 dBs are compatible and come with the required end caps, and the novatecs I'll be getting soon are also compatible (if I buy the end caps for a tenner or so).

Already on compressionless. Will try cleaning and sanding. Theres dirt or something on the rotors that hasnt gone after a few rides, bit weird. cheers

Has anyone tried a 9mm qr thru axle (either dt swiss RWS or novatec/superstar 9mm qr) with compatible wheels? If so, did you notice any difference/improvement compared to regular 5mm QRs?

The people I know who have used them like them.