Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

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  • If it's only one spoke you can avoid detensioning the all wheel. Neutrons have some washers inside the rim. They are held in with a sticky tape, but in time that might become ineffective. If the washer moves from the hole, you need to put it back in exactly the same way, as they are asymmetric. Just look at how another washer on the SAME side of the wheel sits. Other than that, there is nothing particularly difficult about it... of course you need the correct spoke key

  • integer part of hole count/9

    I was expecting a complicated equation involving leading spoke angle away from hub, but this is much easier to remember. Thanks, 2x front and rear it is

  • I was expecting a complicated equation

    There is a complicated equation underlying it, and (hole count)/9 fails if the hub's hole PCD is too large a fraction of the rim's ERD, but for common hubs and 26-28" rims it works. Things like small wheels (BMX, Brompton etc.) or big hubs (Rohloff and upwards) should be calculated rigorously if you want to use the maximum number of crossings.

  • Turns out the Velo Orange touring hubs have an aluminium axle. Looks like it's a choice between Royce, WI and Phil Wood then.

  • Doing a course this week at RftS Bristol, planning on building a 29er wheelset soon after as practice with SP dynamo / LX rear hub / Halo Vapour 35 rims. 32h, probably 3 cross. What spokes would people recommend for a trail riding / bikepacking rig? I'm about 12st.

  • DT comp or Sapim Race would be perfect

  • Approx 2mm either side, wheel fully forward in the dropout


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  • probably 3x! if you try to do anything else you should all your wheel building tools confiscated.

  • Always 3x, always silver spokes. Course was good. I mostly built one wheel, but we ran out of time for me to do the other one so picking it up this week.. Still got some practical experience and got to quiz the guy about some of the finer points.

  • Do Velocity Cliffhanger 700 have any offset on the drilling?

  • Isn't that the rim with the criss cross lacing which is better than offset it add to the bracing angle on both sides of the hub.

  • Hey,
    I'm not exactly building my own wheel but would love some advice.
    I'm looking to get a new set of wheels for my bike but not sure which direction to go in. I have a budget of about £250.
    I was thinking either a set of mavic ellipse's or H plus Son Archetype's built on miche or blb track, I could upgrade to blb kings but that would send me over £300 and not sure if they're worth it. Have people got experience with both wheel sets?
    I ride fixed and would prefer a set of black wheels but it's not that much of an issue.
    Would be good to hear if you have other idea's for a decent set around that price. I'll happily go pre - owned too.
    Cheers

  • Tensile hubs are lighter, cheaper and have similar sealing and bolt on hardware as BLB kings. £45/pair

    Why H Plus Son? For wide rims Borg 22 or DT Swiss R460 are £40 a pop

    http://www.tensile.net/store/p19/Tensile_Professional_Fixie_Hubs._Large_Flange._Inc._Lock_Nuts_Inc._deliveryin%C2%A0United_Kingdom.html

  • Cheers man I'll look into those. Heard the archetype was a decent strong rim at a pretty good price. Aesthetically very nice too.
    Was having a look at some of eBay's Chinese carbon fella's. Can get a rim for around £100 there. I'm just very wary about buying something like that

  • http://productinfo.shimano.com/#/spec/2.3/MTB/Front%20Hub

    Options for a 36h front hub with a 15mm x 100mm thru axle?

    One. HB-M8010.

    All the Novatecs I've seen so far have been either max 32h or QR only.

    Watching eBay for a used Pro 2 Evo instead.

  • Watching eBay for a used Pro 2 Evo instead

    I'd take a used XT over a new Hope :)

    HB-M758 in 36H are still out there if you want 6-bolt

  • Just been through all the archived spec PDFs:

    HB-M678 is listed as 32 or 36h in the 2012-2013 specs, but a lot of places seem only ever to have stocked the 32h version.

    The specs for 2010-2011, 2009-2010 and 2008-2009 list both HB-M778 (Centrelock) and HB-M758 (6-bolt).

    Before 2008, 15mm thru axles didn't exist yet according to Shimano.

    So I'm probably looking for hubs delisted 6 years ago or 4 years ago, in a hole count that was unfashionable even then.

  • I know the forum doesn't have much love for Tredz, but they've never given me any trouble
    http://www.tredz.co.uk/.Shimano-HB-M758-XT-Front-Hub_92611.htm

    Singletrack say they can get them
    https://www.singletrackbikes.co.uk/m7b231s424p14691/Shimano_Deore_XT_HB-M758_Front_Hub_with_6_Bolt_Disc_Mount_15_x_100mm/RS_GB/36437

    As do Triton
    http://www.tritoncycles.co.uk/components-c9/hubs-c120/shimano-hb-m758-xt-front-hub-p9093/s22023

    I got my M758 in 36H from one of ze German shops, can't remember which one but none of them have them any more.

  • Hey guys,

    I need some help in choice of rims and spoke count since I can't decide myself. As for the hubs I'm fixed on Mack until someone introduces me more badass hubs.
    The wheels will mainly be used for street riding thus will see some curbs (especially the rear wheel, my body refuses to learn how to bunnyhop).
    So the initial idea was 38mm carbon rims from China with 20f/24r spokes. The spoke count shouldn't be a big deal, I saw many road wheels going for it and not failing on deep rims.
    The rims however I'm not certain. How does carbon hold up on a kindofabeaterbutnotreally bike?
    Alternatives are Archetype or Ryde Pulse Comp (an online shop sells them for 30€!!) with the same or slightly higher spoke count. I'd like to ride at least 25mm wide tyres so Archetype > Ryde Pulse.
    I'd love to hear your opinions on this, cheers!

  • 38mm china carbon will be just as strong, if not stronger, than Archetypes if built properly. My new wheelbuild will be 20H/20H low flange Macks to 24mm deep light-bicycle carbon, but I'm fairly light so it shouldnt be an issue for London riding. If you've not already put down a deposit on some custom macks, ask him about his 'blemish stock'. I got mine for absolute steal and received them 2 weeks after first enquiring. I can PM you the list of what he had in stock if you want

  • Thanks for the input, I remember it from my CP thread ;)
    Are the times over where you had to be super careful with carbon stuff? I also don't weigh much so that sounds promising.

    I didn't contact Mack yet, I wanted to be sure on the spoke count first ;) But I would appreciate your PM!

  • curbs (especially the rear wheel, my body refuses to learn how to bunnyhop).

    You can avoid this by not riding on the pavement.

  • pulse comps have very tight tyre fitting that is why you see them discounted. I have several in the shop even at £30 they are not selling.

    Buy it if you use conti tyres. Many others are just too tight to mount.

    There are many wider rims out there, the archetype has in it favour ease of tyre fitting but its profile means it is not that stiff. For fixed gear wheels that does not matter.

    Carbon rims are just fine. I have 38mm deep very light tubular rims on 11 speed hubs and the wheels are stiff and stable built many.

    On my carbon clinchers I have crashed though many a pothole with no issue. If the tyre is big enough to protect the rim you be fine. Spoke nipple washers will help though.

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Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

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