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• #12877
Ah I never thought of that. Makes life even easier! makes me want to shoot some redscale now
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• #12878
I process Fuji eterna 250d as black and white though it's a motion picture colour negative film. I remove the remjet with some soda crystals dissolved in water after loading my film onto reels in my Paterson tank. You give it a shake for 30 secs then it should have come off. It's worth it if you want to use something different. I bought 1000 feet for £45 which load 130 36 exp rolls so I think it works out like 50p a roll to shoot and develop as b and w
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• #12879
You can do it the way you have but the easiest is to use a reusable film canister. How ever you do it though, make sure to tell the processing people that you have done this, as if a bit of sellotape gets stuck in the processing machine it takes forever to get it out and they won't be happy. If they know they can sort it out before hand. Also best to use masking tape as it doesn't affect the machine so badly if it does come off.
Also with exposure, the cool thing with red scale is you get a result wether over or under exposed. Very underexposed is like red and black - over exposed is white and yellow. And there's loads of tones in between. Just go mad and experiment. Don't worry about getting a certain exposure as you'll still get something interesting
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• #12880
Might want to take a look at that photo again, your film hasn't been flipped...
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• #12881
Easy, I dissolved some baking soda in water, poured it in the tank and shook the film around for a bit which... did nothing. Then I developed it normally and afterwards just wiped the remjet off with my finger ¯_(ツ)_/¯
Not in pitch black because everything was in the tank or when it was already developed
Vision3 500T
I'll say yes because I really like cinestill 800 except for the halation, but actually camera issues resulted in no usable images so not really for this roll I guess...I think I'll get some of that medium format to try as soon as I have the chance
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• #12882
Might want to take a look at that photo again, your film hasn't been flipped...
The photo shows the "tricky part", aligning and taping the ends together.
The idea is to then throw it in the changing bag and wind it over in the empty roll - giving you a canister with flipped film.How ever you do it though, make sure to tell the processing people that you have done this (...) If they know they can sort it out before hand.
Wonder how they'll do this but yea, guess it would be fair to tell them.
Thought about just sending it to one of the chepo drugstore-labs to be honest.Don't worry about getting a certain exposure as you'll still get something interesting
Yea I'll try to be on the over-exposed side as I quite like the red-to-yellow scale I saw in some pictures.
Just loaded the film in the Espio Mini, plan on using the flash a lot.
Will post results..Thanks again for your feedback!
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• #12883
Good luck, but seriously, look at the photo again, your film isn't flipped over. You've wound it into another canister the same way up.
Need the glossy side down and matt side up
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• #12884
seriously, look at the photo again, your film isn't flipped over
This is a photo from the guide I linked to some posts above.
It shows a full canister (on the left), leader cut off, and a receiving canister (bit of film sticking out (on the right).
Both films are taped together as you can see. In daylight, which makes it well less of a faff.Now it will be wound from the left roll to the right one in a changing bag.
This will give you a roll of flipped film in the right canister.Seriously.
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• #12885
Ah sorry I thought that was a photo of one you did, I'd didn't realise it was from somewhere else. Sorry about that
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• #12886
No worries..
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• #12887
Yeah, the halation kinda ruined it for me as well tbh - the film is just too expensive to be having mixed results (for me anyway).
I don't develop at home so it's probably not an option for me anyway. -
• #12888
Laura was the subject. Only just learned she won their award. Not seen many of the stills taken yet though.
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• #12889
I'm looking to buy an old Olympus RD, trouble is it has the common issue of Oil on the shutter blades and possibly the light seals need attention.
is there anywhere in London that could service this camera for me at a reasonable cost?
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• #12890
Maybe the people at West End Cameras?
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• #12891
From the first page of this thread.
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• #12892
Who shoots with an Olympus OM here? Just got gifted a OM2n and looking for prime lens recommendations. Feels like a nicely made camera!
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• #12893
I have the 50mm/1.8 and the 35mm/2.8 here. The 50mm is cheap and awesome. Supersharp if you hit the focus right. All the pictures I posted here are mostly done with it.
Can't say much about the 35mm though, didn't have the chance to shoot a roll with it yet ;) -
• #12894
Ah cool, I'll have a browse back at your shots. I'm looking at the 85mm F2.
It's my uncles camera and he gave me it at a family party yesterday.
I've got an idea forming to take some portraits of my cousins with it and print them myself.
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• #12895
That's a really nice idea, and that 85 / f2 looks great..
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• #12896
Just need to work out what lens my enlarger needs and how to make a print..... How difficult can it be!
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• #12897
Like danslecarton, I'd recommend the 50mm/1.8 Zuiko. It's one of my favourite lenses, easy to focus and really sharp.
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• #12898
85mm/2 sounds really nice! And the camera itself is also a beautiful piece of hardware.
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• #12899
Hi folks
Any tips for light metering ? I'm using my iPhone (Pocket light meter app) and the sunny rule... -
• #12900
Thinking the 50mm will be my first buy, then the 35, then the 85.
..haven't had my hands in a changing bag for a while, so took me some time, but I managed it.
Actually now I'm done (while searching the net for exposure compensation when shooting redscale) I found this guide - which makes the tricky part (taping the reversed film) a lot easier - as you can do it outside the changing bag, if you have an emty canister with a bit of film sticking out..
Duh!