Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

BB7, BMX linear cables plus outer

What I have on the front of the Day One, the front of my Pomp and both ends of my mtb.

Outperforms hydros.

@coventry_eagle, @M_V or anyone else who knows. What's a good BMX linear outer/inner and is the BMX stuff really as good as normal stuff considering its so much cheaper?

Gonna help my mate build his new planet x rtd-80 next week.

Will this bleed kit work for SRAM Rival hydraulics? It says it works with all Avid/sram etc but don't know if it's just talking about mtb stuff?

I usually just buy whatever's cheap. You might need to pay attention to length depending on your frame size/routing. Some are longer than others.

I've always bought Stolen ones and never had an issue ever! Bonus is that it's PTFE lined and coated which means that all is needed is a squirt of GT85 to keep it smooth.

I would say that they are equivalent if not better and it's the other way around - linear/compressionless/non-binding cables have been in the BMX scene for ages and it's only quite recent that it's being picked up by road/mtb manufacturers which then hiked up the price.

You've got the wrong rims or rimtape.

Thanks @M_V and @coventry_eagle. On a BMX I would imagine the braking load ie load put on the cable and housing would be lower as you are unlikely to do an emergency stop if racing / freestyle. Are these sufficient for road use?

On a BMX I would imagine the braking load ie load put on the cable and housing would be lower as you are unlikely to do an emergency stop if racing / freestyle.

They should be fine. They get ridden to the track / park. All the force tends to go through one - rear - brake, too.

Are you kidding?

Bmx brakes are used to lock the wheel for loads of tricks.

They get a way harder life than cables on road/cx/mtbs.

Mine was on my polo bike with a freewheel and front brake only (yes, we polo guys are madzzz!!!) for a good year or two and lived :D

Who's selling Yokozuna Reaction these days? Cycle Workx dont have them in stock.

Keep checking with Cycleworx*. They get stock in fairly regularly, it just sells out faster than they can get it

hmm maybe I should preorder then

But surely not stopping from road speeds?

Doesn't really matter how fast your going, just how hard you pull, and that's probably about the same and the housing will have been made to take much more.

Cool. Now does anyone now where you can by BMX linear cable housing by the metre (I'm not in London)? An online supplier would be best; I can only find cable sets.

I assume a standard Road inner would work with these outers, or is that a bad assumption?

Never seen it sold like that.

Do you manage to run a full length outer to the back brake?

On my (large) mtb yes. Wasn't so sure I'd be able to on my Day One. Cable goes down the fowntube on it which I think is a longer route.

CRC were doing Kore cable sets that come with 2 inbred and few metres of outer (all in one piece) for a decent price. If you're worried about length I'd maybe go for something like that.

Cheers. Down the downtube is the route I need to take.

Repost from above:

I've always bought Stolen ones and never had an issue ever! Bonus is that it's PTFE lined and coated which means that all is needed is a squirt of GT85 to keep it smooth.

I know I bought some by the metre once but couldn't find out where from last time I looked.

I saw the link, thanks, but it's unfortunately too short for my requirements.

Right, due to a schoolboy error I've managed to get air into my front hydraulic brake and, looking at how to bleed them, I find lots of conflicting ways to do so. (The brakes are RS685 mechanical). The fundamental question I have is do you use gravity to refill the system, or use a syringe to go against gravity, i.e. do I put the fluid in the fluid container at the lever, and let it drain through, or, as others suggest, put it in the syringe and use pressure to force it up the hose?