Jambon's Bikes

Really? I've set up a few 5700/Spyre combo's and they've all been pretty tight. Actually helped colleague re-cable his today. Good bite with little lever throw. Just gotta spend time with them.

Can also confirm, Shimano tech rep emphatically says 4700 is different to older 10 speed, something like 3.5/1

I thought they moved to the 'New Super SLR' brake pull ratio on the X700 series?

I would also go 1x11 or 1x10. If you used a 5700 hub or 6700 then you could have used a 11 speed MTB cassette.

Really? I've set up a few 5700/Spyre combo's and they've all been pretty tight.

It helped massively when the pads are sitting correctly in the calipers, while I can get 5700/6700 etc. to work fine, the pull on the 5800/6800 is noticably better.

@edscoble do you know of a Shimano 10sp shifter, with cabling under bartape, that has the better brake pull yet still compatible with my 9sp mtb rear derailleur, or it's own that can handle 11-34t?

I've had a look online for a Shimano brake/gear pull ratio chart but I get the impression it's info they deem not being consumer friendly. With all this incompatibility between groups there is a part of me that thinks wouldn't Hylex and a bar end shifter be less of a headache.

Hylex is fit and forget, you may need to cut the rear housing a bit short, but it work great, the current 105 5700 will work with your brakeset, give it a try first, especially with Yokozuna Reaction.

True dat. This was on an equilibrium with whiskey forks, so well faced. I'd still risk a 5700 with cable discs. Even without compression less. Though don't you get that anyway when you buy a new set of Spyres?

@edscoble thanks for all the help, sound advice I think and will see how the brakes perform.

Pretty happy with the rear mudguard fit, although now looking in the photo could lose a spacer at the chainstay bridge. Pretty stressful without a bike stand and can see why people get the lbs to fit. The drop from the fork crown is too long for the supplied mount so need a problem solver fork flute really but getting there.

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oofff that's handsome

Fffffffffffiiiiitttt

Thats really nice.

Fuck yes...really making me want one to comfort up my half hour commute ;)

I had the same issue at the fork crown. I used some alu tubing and a spare 1" star nut to make a spacer that was compatible with the daruma bolt they supply. I'll try and grab some pics tomorrow. Required a lot of fettling, but (imho) it looks quite neat.

Cheers guys!

@hamrack that's a nice idea, any pics would be great. I did see this and think using some tubing and the supplied daruma could work.

Coming on well!

You'll be fine with 5700 and the Trp.
I've been through about half a dozen sets of pads on mine, front brake is absolutely rock solid on the cable pull, rear nominally more sponge due to the cable length, but I wouldn't change anything.

Jagwire Road Pro XL cable set (as I've just commented on another thread).
I'd also go for Eds recommendation if you can find the Yokozuna stuff at a reasonable price. A full jagwire set as I've mentioned can often be had for sub £30...

If you haven't decided yet, one thing that swung me for regular Spyres over SLC was that the newer cable mount for the SLC is just a basic flat plate and crimp, which seems pretty agricultural compared to the more traditional brake cable style mount of the regular ones

Sound like the rear calipers is not 100% aligned due to either facing the mount,the pads not sitting straight in the calipers (quite common), or pads simply not adjusted.

So possibly going in a different direction with this... When choosing the wheelset I was told the hub would take an 11sp road cassette, but when trying this for myself the freehub was too short. Basically the shop used a Halo Supa Drive hub (mtb 11sp) when they should have fitted a Halo Spin Doctor 6D rear hub (road 11sp), which they're now doing free of charge thankfully. To be fair their distributor did misinform them and they've been good about rectifying it quickly.

This now means I don't have to make do and mend and can fit 105 5800 as I had originally planned. It also means:

• I can still use a 10sp road/mtb cassette should I wish
  
• Can use hydraulic discs with integrated brake/shift levers in the form of Shimano RS685
  
• My rear derailleur can match the shifters (105/105)
  

If you haven't ordered a PS Flute yet, there's other options for your mudguard.
On a Straggler fork I fitted a star fangled nut on the bottom of the steerer, then threaded the M6 bolt through (upside-down) using a champagne cork as a spacer. Was pretty neat, solid and cheap too.

To be fair their distributor did misinform them and they've been good about rectifying it quickly.

Best outcome, always worth asking before buying for this very reason.

@lolo I've been experimenting with making flutes out of alu tubing with mixed results. The fangled star nut sounds like a good idea, but I can't slide this directly into the steerer as my rack attaches via the bridge. This means the thread going into the star nut would prevent the rack attaching at the brake bridge as it would be in the way. I think a fangled star nut is the way forward but inserted into an alu tube/flute as it were, should allow micro adjust and keep the fork bridge free.

@edscoble did send a few emails directly to Halo prior but obviously wasn't asking the right questions! Just glad it's getting sorted and don't have to look at cable pull ratio charts for when I was planning on mixing shifters/derailleurs.

What's the news? Built yet?

@spotter not just yet unfortunately, although rear wheel back from the lbs and ready for 11sp. Will take some pics this weekend but looking very similar. Next step is sourcing the silver 5800, although looking at new prices doesn't seem far off 2nd hand.

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So not much news really, apart from:

• Rear wheel relaced with Halo Spin Doctor 6D hub (11sp road compatible)
  
• Trp Spyre calipers/discs
  
• @lolo suggestion of a fangled nut in some tubing worked a treat to mount the front mudguard under the fork bridge. Holding up strong but think I'll have another go at this to get it a bit neater.
  

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