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• #2702
Alternately, take off wheel, put credit card in calipers, squeeze gently a couple time then put wheel back in.
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• #2704
With Shimano there is a screw you can adjust in the level, not sure about Sram. It's typical of hydro road brakes to have a long throw... manufacturers don't want a lever which is too abrupt, to avoid people locking the front wheel and crashing
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• #2706
??
Page 33
file:///Users/student/Downloads/DM-BR0008-00-ENG.pdf
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• #2707
Ain't nobody going to be able to download your local file.
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• #2708
They have it, but it doesn't really work.
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• #2709
Oops... stupid Mac thing...
easy to find online
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• #2710
I know next to piss all about disc brakes, but i understand that compressionless cables are the way forward.
If I buy a set of these https://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8;product=141894;menu=1000,4,38;mid%5B931%5D=1;pgc%5B11876%5D=11877;pgc%5B15596%5D=15599
can anyone recommend cables to go with?
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• #2711
As those are hydraulic you'll only need shift cables. Shift cables are always compressionless. I'd imagine those would come with some? (I couldn't be bothered to read the product desc.).
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• #2712
1 pair dual control lever ST-RS505 + BR-RS505 brakes mineral oil (2 x 50ml) shifting cables braking cables OT-SP41 shifting housing
Seems to be the case - I'm assuming there are little/no gains to be made with something Jagwire cables?
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• #2713
No point, standard Shimano stuff work perfectly well, as long it's trimmed nicely, not too long/short, etc. it will shift great.
It's only with cable operated disc calipers is where compressionless housing can make a difference (as well with mini-v and occasionally v brake with road levers).
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• #2714
Great - cheers.
Are those calipers/shifters still my best bet for budget hydro set up?
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• #2715
Compressionless brake cable outers are only for cable brakes. Basically they replace the standard coil construction, which is compressible, with a longitudinal wire construction, which, just like ALL gear cable outers, is not compressible.
The Shimano you are looking at are hydraulic brakes, so it does not apply
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• #2716
Not possible to change the action on the SRAM hydros.
I have a related problem, whereby I find at times I can pull the lever all the way to the bar because the reach adjustment has loosened off over time (or impacts into trees). Easy to fix, just push the levers back out again using the little grub screw then max braking FTW.
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• #2718
Partner's Spyre is making an unpleasant noise - sounds like the return spring is creaking as she releases the lever.
Anyone had this? Possible to lube without stripping it down?
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• #2719
I had a squeaky spyre. Just got some oil into the arm rotation points. Didn't even take it off the bike. Went away straight away.
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• #2720
Perfect, just what I wanted to hear.
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• #2721
I'd just take off the pads and wheel just to ensure it doesn't contaiminated the pads/rotor.
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• #2722
Quite - was planning to, good advice.
sprays whole area with GT85
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• #2723
Haha. Good advice. I should have mentioned that I dripped it in. No spray. Soz.
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• #2724
@swedeee @coventry_eagle @andy_k - removed the wheel and checked the rotor.. it looked brand new, so compressed the brake a few times in full.. gave it a spray off and did it again and reinstalled the wheel. All is well now. Not sure what it was, but must've just been some gunk. Thanks for the help.
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• #2725
Ordered my RS-505 hydro brakes. 300 euros is a pretty decent price - looking forward to testing them out in a few months once my new build is complete.
What rotors should I be looking at? Probably going with 160 front and 140 rear.
Adjust the reach if you can. If still no good it could be bleed tiem - with a slightly narrower bleed block if you can.