Current Projects chat and miscellany

Sunday pick up:

This crankset seems made for it, slave build incoming..

@Gaston: This Salmon is ace..

Thanks beaucoup Hacha is that Look in genius tubing ? Zeus drop out ?
Headset kézaco?

Is that the one that was for sale on leboncoin as a complete bike two days ago for 250€? If so, congrats, what a bargain!

@Gaston I think Columbus Brain with Megatube downtube, drop out aren't pantographied Zeus but same kind. Headset is Rudelli (never seen before) with monobloc upper cup, like Mavic 305 etc.

@Sig_Arlecchino It is, I've paid more than 250€ but still a fair deal (Seller's Iphone was raped). Frame is in quite perfect condition, no rust, just really minor paint chips..

This gonna be a bit small for me, so if anyone want to trade against the same in 57/58 ctc I'm in.

Or against any other nice frameset, just MP

So nice, looking forward to the build!

have decided i'm gonna be one of those guys and run a SRAM cassette with shimano mechs/shifters (PG1170 with ST RS505)

Safe to assume that shimano chain still best bet, or would SRAM be better?

KMC

any particular model? durability is top of the list for this build...

The one that costs as much as you want to pay. They're all good.

durability is top of the list for this build...

Don't try to drag out chain life, get the basic one and replace frequently to maximise cassette life.

As he said, KMC or Wippermann.

wheel building day CXP14 X4X2

CXP10 X4

DA track 1st gen
Nitto black riser and grips incomming

what counts as 'frequently'?

bearing in mind this build is primarily for a 4000km race

what counts as 'frequently'?

Change at 0.5% elongation

50Hz

I don't think taking a chain measuring tool is particularly a good idea for what I have in mind.

If the consensus is just that any 11 speed KMC chain is good and equally reliable for a 4000km race, then that's cool.

I always found KmC least reliable/most prone to snappage.

I've had a Wippermann go, and a Shimano 105 10spd. Also, fitted a KMC 11-93 (if I remember correctly) to a mate's bike and that snapped. One of the regular links (not the quicklink that I'd fitted) went on the first ride. Personally not had a KMC go and I tend to use the X11-SL or EL OEM from Taiwan on ebay.

Sorry, that was a bit oblique.

What I should have said, is that you could wear out a chain in 4,000km (especially under race conditions), so you'd be wise to carry a spare or make sure you can buy one if needed.

Of course you might not think it's worthwhile carrying the tool and just change it after, say 2,000km.

That particular tool is more accurate than the more common types, as it only measures wear at one roller: the other type will have you changing your chain before it's needed (but that's better than too late).

Maybe I'll find a (reputable) bike shop 50% through and just have the chain switched there. Might be a good idea to have a quick service while I stop for something to eat anyway.

I have a pair of mavic cxp 11 laced to shimano 600 hubs (32h). Am I right in assuming that they are basically the same as cxp 10 only with braking surfaces?

Can anyone recommend some 26mm (or 25.4) risers, silver, with a decent amount of rise and sweep? for a pub bike so cheap! Even better if someone has a set they're selling.

Sorry, what led to the conclusion the brakes are hydraulic? This can be usual mechanical disc brakes thing on a road bike with less lever movement, not enough space between pads and not a very straight rotor. Had this all the time when using BB7 roads. Shimano CX77 fixed the situation immediately
Hydraulic disc brakes do how web tend to fix themselves due the nature?..
Just straighten the rotor maybe :)

Those are very nice hubs, Gaston ;))

Yep Mavic cxp 11 is CXP10 with braking surfaces
Cxp 22 is CXP 21 with braking surfaces
CXP30 is CXP 14 with braking surfaces

http://www.tearsforgears.com/2011/12/different-mavic-cxp-rims.html