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• #2
You will certainly be fine without chain tugs.
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• #3
Cheers Jim ,I just thought the wheel was prone to slipping although I have to say in all the pics of complete bikes built using the same frame know one seems to use them . I'm glad in that case as I prefere the look without them .
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• #4
The rear bolt may not have enough purchase to grip the track end.
Either get the long allen key or something like a Phil Wood Chrome Dome.
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• #5
With bolt on wheels never had much slippage problem.
Sometimes get axle slipping with Q/R wheels, in general Shimano Lx/Xt Q/R skewers are ment to be the best if using Q/R'sI have used chain tugs as inboard spacers when running 120mm wheels in 135mm spaced frames.
And i have used tugs when racing horizontal dropout frames as the tugs give a bit more extra security against axle slip when smacking rocky ground at speed in downhill mountain biking, some tracks like fort william and cwm carn are a bit lumpy.
Have seen others blow the back wheel out of the dropouts :)Good set of Q/R's or good condition track nuts, done up properly and you shouldn't have a problem.
Some bikes do look right with tugs.
Does Sir Chris Hoy use tugs ? and he wops out some power :) -
• #6
Used these from Halo/gusset nice and light and worked well. fairly cheap too.
1 Attachment
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• #7
So basically guys I should be good without them for general commuting and the odd bit of smooth single track .
If anyone wants a new pair of MKS 5mm tugs I have a pair for sale . -
• #8
100% not necessary.
Just makes it easier to set up the alignment, chain tension etc
Can still do this without those things. Your bike will look sleeker without them altogether
Wheels don't fall out of frames when the dropout is front facing. Rear facing track ends would only result in the wheel being pulled into the frame. And before that the wheel would slip and rub on the chain stay causing the bike to slow down quickly, rather than fall out.
No need for them, just make the bike right mechanically and do everything up tight. Job done.
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• #9
No need for them, just make the bike right mechanically and do everything up tight. Job done.
This would helped massively;
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• #10
Thanks chaps I'm happy with all this posotive new of the fact they are not needed.
The hubs I'm using are Tensile .I will see how the cerated washers grip .I had looked at the Phil wood chrome dome washers but as they have a inner lip so to speak that sits in the trackend I don't see how I can as my rear axle sits in the trackend so there isn't really any room .
Anyway hopefully all will be ok .
Fingers crossed -
• #11
Don't take this the wrong way, but your post history reads like a short story about a man and his relationship with chain tugs:
(Read from bottom to top.)
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• #12
Lol ,yes its looks that way although I'd never think to or indeed have ever searched through someone's posts to highlight such a fact .But I can see how it looks .Basically I've invested a great deal of hard earned into this build and as my background is primarily mtb I don't have great deal of experiace with SS builds apart from an On One inbread I built a few years ago .I didn't want to fall fowl of my rear wheel slipping and marking up my new and rather expensive frame as well as any other issues that an out of line wheel might cause simply because I had not bothered to fit a chain tug. Imitadly I should of started this thread before buying the MKS chain tensioner that ended up being the wrong size anyway ,which would of saved myself £30 .And so before I spent another £30 I decided to see what others on here thought of tugs and if they were really necessary .Which it appears there not ,so I'm left with a pair to sell and can push forward with the final jobs to complete this bike .
Cheers
Ja -
• #13
You're reading into this way too much.
I'm building a cinelli mash work SS bike and I've just bought some MKS chain tugs which unfortunately don't fit due to my dropouts being to wide .I don't really like the larger chunky ones and wondered if they are really necessary .My rear axle has the Allen key type bolts with the cerated inner face for grip.any help would be great.